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tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the DRYER parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.
if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you APPLIANCE should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the MACHINE is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
Try plugging something else into the outlet socket to see if that throws the trip fuse. If it does then the outlet is faulty. Try plugging the washer into another outlet and see if it throws the trip in which case the machine is suspect.
I literally had to have mine on it's own outlet with nothing plugged into the secondary outlet, also if it's on a line, ie; older house, again no other electricity can be pulled from the outlet or the machine knows it doesn't have full power. Also, I reset on the plug itself a good 5 times while plugged in and not plugged in, eventially, it worked for me. Good Luck.
Not a solution, just a safety measure. Please keep this unit unplugged until you find a solution for safety's sake. You didn't mention the brand, but some ovens have been starting on their own while the owner is away and causing an explosion and a house fire.
Sounds like a power supply issue. Take off the lower panels below the door and look to the right side of the opening, you will see a little square steel cover. This cover is where your power comes into the dishwasher. Follow the line coming into the dishwasher, it will either be a power cord that leads to an outlet, or a regular power line coming in. IF it leads to an outlet, try plugging something into the outlet. If the outlet is under the sink, try switching the plug from the top outlet to the bottom one (or vice~versa). Sometimes the outlets under sinks are set up so that a garbage disposer can be plugged into one of the outlets that is controlled by a wall switch. If you get no power to the outlet, and all of your breakers are on, look for a GFI outlet that may have been tripped. These outlets have the little "test" and "reset" buttons on them and often are wired in parallel so that multiple outlets are powered (and protected) by one GFI. Lastly if you have determined that there is power to the outlet, remove the cover under the dishwasher and inspect the wire connections. I have found many machines that had poor connections causing the wire nuts to burn right off the cord connections. Now if everything else checks out power wise, you may have a blown fuse located on the control board housing inside the console of the machine. Get the part before you disassemble the door. To access it you will have to remove all the screws around the inner door liner and separate the two halves of the door. The control board is in the top right corner of the door and is usually under a plastic cover. The fuse is a small white thing that clips to the control board housing. Good luck! Hope this helps you out!
check the outlet to make sure that power is getting to the unit. This can easily be done by plugging in a lamp or some small appliance. If you have power at the outlet, it is most likely the lid switch. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Some machines have a special lid-switch fuse near the lid switch, inside the control panel. Unless you are familiar with working inside the housing I would call a technician.