Question about Candy Dryers
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
Below is a link to common solutions that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
It provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again. Once you access the site you will be able to navigate numerous pages of information on your product. You will need to enter your model number to access your product information.
Tip: Always provide the complete information provided on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the user’s manual. This will help you acquire a more accurate and expeditious response to your complaint. I will post the most common solutions to your complaint. For more specific information please refer to the tip and/or link provided. Here are some things to look for:
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Power from the house
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
Posted on Jul 06, 2008
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 11, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers
Jan 23, 2010 | Dryers
Aug 18, 2009 | Kenmore 84152 Electric Dryer
Aug 07, 2009 | Whirlpool WED6400S Electric Dryer
Dec 13, 2008 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...
Oct 14, 2006 | Zanussi WJS1265W Front Load Washer/Dryer
157 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: