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I bought a 1''F and 28mm elbow to connected hot water cylinder and cold water pipe, but when the elbow is tighten to the hot water cylinder, it does not point to the direction where water pipe should be connected. Could anybody give advice how to solve this problem please?

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Remove the elbow and fitting and apply pipe seal (pipe dope) to the threads. Reinstall it and adjust only as tight as necessary to get the proper direction.

Posted on Jul 06, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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COULD YOU PLEASE TEL ME HOW TO INSTAL MY SHOWER


ok! run hot and cold water pipes to faucet.up through the wall. hot on left, cold on right. on center of faucet run a pipe straight up where you want it. put a elbow on top of this pipe to hook shower spout and head too. just screw spout to elbow whitch comes through wall for shower head. the best thing to do is on the back side of pipes is have an opening to get to pipes if anything goes wrong in the future. just put up a temporary panel that can be removed easily. or shevles that can be removed. you can buy the faucet at home depot etc. if need any more info, just e-mail me or repost. toolman1862001@yahoo.com, good-day!!

Aug 25, 2011 | Home

1 Answer

I need to find a free complete diagram for a turbo charger off of a 1987 toyota pickup 22ret


22r-Te
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the coolant.

CAUTION

When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

  1. Disconnect the O2 sensor wire clamp and connector.
  2. Disconnect the Nos. 1 and 3 PCV hoses.
85783063.gif

Exploded view of the turbocharger-22R-TE engine
Click to Enlarge 85783064.gif

Installing air cleaner hose-22R-TE engine
Click to Enlarge 85783065.gif

Clip installation-22R-TE engine
Click to Enlarge

  1. Disconnect the Nos. 1 and 2 turbocharger water hoses.
  2. Loosen the clamp on the throttle body, remove the two nuts and lift off the air tube assembly.
  3. Remove the No. 1 air cleaner hose assembly and the No. 2 air cleaner hose.
  4. Remove the exhaust manifold and turbocharger heat insulators.
  5. Disconnect the No. 3 turbocharger water hose.
  6. Raise the truck and disconnect the exhaust pipe from the turbine outlet.
  7. Remove the turbocharger bracket stay.
  8. Disconnect the turbocharger oil pipe.
  9. Remove the turbocharger and exhaust manifold as an assembly.
  10. Remove the No. 2 turbocharger water pipe.
  11. Remove the oil pipe.
  12. Remove the No. 1 water pipe.
  13. Remove the turbine outlet elbow with the O2 sensor attached.
  14. Disconnect the turbocharger from the manifold.

To install:

  1. Pour approximately 20cc of new oil into the oil inlet and then turn the turbocharger impeller wheel so as to wet the bearing.
  2. Using a new gasket, attach the turbocharger to the manifold and tighten the nuts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
  3. Install the turbine outlet elbow and tighten the nuts to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  4. Install the No. 1 water pipe. Install the turbo oil pipe and tighten the nuts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
  5. Install the No. 2 water pipe and then mount the assembly to the cylinder head.
  6. Install the oil pipe and tighten the union bolt to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). Tighten the nuts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Install the turbocharger bracket stay.
  8. Connect the exhaust pipe to the turbine outlet elbow and tighten the nuts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm). Lower the truck.
  9. Connect the No. 3 water hose and install the heat insulators.
  10. Install the No. 2 air cleaner hose with the arrow facing the turbocharger and fasten the clip as shown.
  11. Install the air tube assembly. Connect the O2 sensor and clamp.
  12. Refill the engine with coolant, start it and check for leaks.
  13. shinehutt_48.gif
  14. shinehutt_49.gif
i hope this will help you

plz comment reply if you have any questions

Jan 20, 2011 | Toyota Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I am having problems with the connections of my hot water heater. The connection of the cold water to the water tank leaks around the connection. When I tighten it the pipe twisted and it started...


Remember, that COLD water might cause condensation as it nears the Hot Water tank--

However, you seem pretty sure it was leaking-- so-- What type of piping are we working with: Copper, Plastic, or what?

Copper is the best-- but requires soldering fittings-- are you equipped to do that?

Plastic has shrink and expand problems around a Hot Water tank, and might be why you have the leak?

Tell us more, -- how far do you want to get into this?

Mack B

Jan 19, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I am losing water pressure, but only on the hot side. Cold pressure is fine, as you add hot the pressure fades, the hotter the less pressure. This is at all points in the house. The water heater was...


You have a clog in the hot water line.
If problem is at one faucet, then remove aerator and clean, then disassemble lines underneath sink.

If problem is at every faucet, then that moves search close to water heater.
Look at hot water line that exits water heater and trace that line to first Tee.
Look at cold water line that enters water heater and trace that line to Tee.
Clog is located between those 2 Tees.

Buy pressure tester that connects to hose thread.
geno_3245_251.jpg
Connect pressure gauge to hot water heater drain valve.
Then conduct same test you did at faucet.
See if pressure drops at tank.

If pressure drops, then clog is on cold side of tank, and probably hot side too.
If pressure does not drop, then clog is on hot side of tank.

Suspect 1 is any place two different metals join. For example galvanized pipe and copper.
Suspect 2 is supply pipes that exit top of tank. Take apart and look inside pipes for corrosion and sediment lining pipe walls.
Suspect 3 is elbow. Disassemble pipes and look for sediment and flakes of rust.
Suspect 4 is all suspects above, each having sediment and corrosion.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Jan 19, 2011 | Rheem 50 Gallon FVR NATGAS Water Heater...

1 Answer

Cold water pressure poor in shower. Just had Rheem installed.


You might have clog in water lines.
If shower is only place where low pressure exists, then clog is probably at shower valve.
Disassemble valve and see if clog will flush out.
From there, you have to keep moving back along cold water line looking for pipe filled with sediment or elbow that has obstruction.

If pressure problem is bad at every cold tap, but doesn't affect Hot water, then clog is inside Cold line somewhere after water heater connects to cold line.
Buy a pressure gauge that connects to water hose.
Buy adapter that also fits pipe thread.
For example Brady BTG 100.
Test outdoor spigot for baseline pressure.
Open cold tap inside house and see how much pressure drops.
Close cold line and open hot tap and see how much pressure drops.

Next, move pressure gauge along cold water line.
Take apart pipes and inspect for obstruction at elbow or pipes filled with sediment.
Look for any place galvanized pipe connects to copper pipe, since this will be likely place for obstruction because of bi-metal corrosion.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on pipes.

Jan 05, 2011 | Rheem 40 Gallon FVR NATGAS Low WATER...

1 Answer

I have a hotpoint hot water heater it's about 6 years old. When I turn the hot water on it runs very slowly the water pressure is very low and it's like this throughout the house how do I fix this problem...


You have clog in the water line.
Since all hot water pipes are involved, clog is probably near water heater.

Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that threads onto hose connection.
Brady BTG 100 at Amazon
Picture of gauge

Check outdoor pressure for baseline pressure in your home.
Turn off electricity to hot water heater for an hour or two so there is not scalding water.
Open drain valve on water heater to see if water heater is clogged with sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

Put pressure gauge on drain valve and compare with outside pressure.
Open hot water spigot on bathtub and see if tank pressure drops ... if tank pressure drops significantly with bathtub spigot on, then clog is on incoming cold water before tank, and could be on outgoing hot water pipes too.
If tank pressure stays about the same, then clog is on outgoing hot water pipes.

Clog can be sediment caught in cold water shut off valve located above tank. Open and close valve and test pressure again. Take apart incoming cold water pipes above tank and check for sediment. Replace valve. Look at condition of cold water nipple on top of tank.

Sediment caught at hot water elbow near tank.
Sediment can fill up old pipes. Take apart hot water pipes above water heater and see condition.
Look at condition of hot water nipple on top of tank.
You may have to take apart pipes up to first or second elbow.

Pipes can decay at joint where copper pipe connects to galvanized pipe. Check for copper to galvanized connections on cold or hot pipes and replace section of galvanized pipe. Copper pipe will probably be good, the galvanized pipe will deteriorate. Replace copper-to-galvanized joint with 3/4" non-conducting union from hardware store

Dec 06, 2010 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Turned off the hot water to fix a leaking tap. now the tap has no hot or cold water and the hot water tank valve is leaking?


It sounds like two problems.
Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet
Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet.
My bet is clog inside faucet.

If you have galvanized pipe that meets copper pipe, this can be trouble spot.
Article on clogged water pipes at Inspectapedia:
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pipe_Clog_Repair_Guide.htm

Article on clogged pipes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/backflushing.html

Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?

If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.

If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.

If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating.
New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe.

Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house:
Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.

Test pressure on outdoor spigot.
Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.

Test pressure on water heater drain valve.
This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.

If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect.
If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow.

Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank.
Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.


Nov 16, 2010 | Rheem Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve

2 Answers

Cylinderhead torque stc.


Cylinder Head Removal & Installation SOHC To Remove:
  1. Relieve fuel system pressure.
  2. Remove timing belt cover. Camshaft timing marks kia-03-20-7032.gif

  3. Turn crankshaft until timing mark on front housing and the arrow "2" on the camshaft pulley align.
  4. Loosen lock bolt on tensioner.
  5. Pry tensioner away from timing belt and tighten lock bolt to relieve tension on the timing belt.
  6. Remove timing belt from camshaft pulley.
  7. Disconnect battery negative cable.
  8. Remove 3 bolts that secure accelerator cable and air intake hose to cylinder head cover.
  9. Detach accelerator cable and place off to side.
  10. Remove the following;
    • Air hose
    • Air ISC air hose
    • Breather hose
    • Vacuum hose from air intake hose
  11. Disconnect mass air flow sensor electrical connector.
  12. Remove air intake hose.
  13. Remove PCV valve from cylinder head cover.
  14. Remove ISC air hose from idle speed actuator.
  15. Remove air hose from behind intake manifold.
  16. Remove 2 screws from high tension wire protectors.
  17. Detach wire loom from holder at rear of cylinder head cover.
  18. Detach vacuum tube at rear of cylinder head cover.
  19. Remove vacuum pipe. Cylinder Head Cover kia-03-20-7042.gif

  20. Remove 7 cylinder head cover bolts.
  21. Remove cylinder head cover and gasket.
  22. Disconnect 2 ignition coil electrical connectors.
  23. Disconnect 2 fuel injection electrical connectors at rear of cylinder head.
  24. Disconnect the following electrical connectors;
    • Oxygen sensor
    • Throttle position sensor
    • Idle speed actuator
    • Oil pressure switch
    • EGR vacuum solenoid valve at intake manifold
  25. Disconnect heater hose from elbow.
  26. Disconnect brake booster vacuum hose and cruise control vacuum hose from surge tank.
  27. Detach wire harness from rear of cylinder head.
  28. Disconnect purge control solenoid vacuum hose from intake manifold.
  29. Disconnect fuel hose from fuel connector assembly.
  30. Remove grounding bracket.
  31. Remove 4 bolts and intake manifold bracket.
  32. Remove starter.
  33. Detach water bypass hose from bypass pipe.
  34. Disconnect water hoses from oil cooler.
  35. Disconnect fuel hose from fuel pipe.
  36. Remove exhaust manifold heat shield.
  37. Remove exhaust flange nuts and front exhaust bracket bolt.
  38. Lower exhaust system. Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence kia-03-20-7050.gif

  39. Loosen cylinder head bolts in 3 steps in proper sequence.
  40. Remove cylinder head bolts and washers.
  41. Remove cylinder head, intake manifold and exhaust manifold as an assembly.
To Install:
  1. Install NEW cylinder head gasket.
  2. Install cylinder head, intake manifold and exhaust manifold as an assembly.
  3. Tighten cylinder head bolts in 3 steps in reverse sequence that was used during removal. Tighten bolts to 62 ft lb (84 Nm).
  4. Install front exhaust bracket bolt. Tighten bolt to 20 ft lb (27 Nm).
  5. Install NEW lower exhaust flange gasket and 3 nuts. Tighten nuts to 24 ft lb (31 Nm).
  6. Install exhaust manifold heat shield. Tighten nuts to 35 in lb (4 Nm).
  7. Connect fuel hose to pipe.
  8. Connect 2 hoses to oil cooler.
  9. Attach water bypass hose to bypass pipe.
  10. Install starter and bolts. Tighten bolts to 34 ft lb (46 Nm).
  11. Install intake manifolds bracket and 4 bolts. Tighten bolts to 32 ft lb (45 Nm).
  12. Install grounding bracket.
  13. Connect fuel hose to fuel connector assembly.
  14. Connect the following electrical connectors;
    • Oxygen sensor
    • Throttle position sensor
    • Idle speed actuator
    • Oil pressure switch
    • EGR vacuum solenoid valve at intake manifold
  15. Connect purge control solenoid vacuum hose to intake manifold.
  16. Attach wire harness from rear of cylinder head.
  17. Connect brake booster vacuum hose and cruise control vacuum hose to surge tank.
  18. Connect heater hose to elbow.
  19. Connect 2 fuel injection electrical connectors at rear of cylinder head.
  20. Connect 2 ignition coil electrical connectors.
  21. Install cylinder head cover.
  22. Install 7 cylinder head cover bolts. Tighten bolts to 60 in lb (7 Nm).
  23. Install vacuum pipe and 2 bolts at rear of cylinder head cover. Tighten bolts to 60 in lb (7 Nm).
  24. Connect vacuum tube to pipe.
  25. Connect loom holder to rear of cylinder head cover.
  26. Install 2 screws to high tension wire protectors.
  27. Install air hose to behind intake manifold.
  28. Install ISC air hose to idle speed actuator.
  29. Install PCV valve to cylinder head cover.
  30. Install air intake hose.
  31. Connect mass air flow sensor electrical connector.
  32. Install the following;
    • Air hose
    • Air ISC air hose
    • Breather hose
    • Vacuum hose from air intake hose
  33. Attach accelerator cable.
  34. Install 3 bolts that secure accelerator cable and air intake hose to cylinder head cover. Timing belt pulley timing marks kia-03-20-7035.gif

    NOTE: Timing belt pulley timing mark and timing mark must be aligned.
    Camshaft timing marks kia-03-20-7032.gif

    NOTE: The arrow at "2" on camshaft pulley must be aligned with timing mark on front housing.
  35. Install timing belt.
  36. Install timing belt cover.
  37. Pressurize fuel system.
  38. Start engine and check ignition timing.

Jul 11, 2010 | 1999 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Shower has only hot water


its either piped wrong or it plugged up , turn the water off too that shower and take the faucet apart and clean it!!

Feb 18, 2010 | B&K Mueller/B & K 450-032 90 Red Brass...

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