We put together an older AFX slot car track (item 9929 Pro challenge speedway) and each controller controls both cars at the same time. In other words. if you initiate the controller speed switch of controller A, both cars in both lanes run. Controller B does the same thing...so you are unable to control seperate cars.
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Hi there, there is a
standard procedure we use to bypass the code when we have the gear on
the test bench for repair. Try this and it should sort out your
problem
You need the remote control to do this, if you don't
have one, then you may need to go to a KENWOOD agent and get them to
clear the code for you, or purchase one for your use.
KENWOOD KDC SECURITY CODE CLEAR procedure
Your code number is 5227 (KCAR)
*
Press numeric key “5” ( 2 times ) and press the Track
UP/Next Track key * Press numeric key “2” ( 3 times )
and press the Track UP/Next Track key * Press numeric key “2”
( 1 time ) and press the Track UP/Next Track key * Press numeric
key “7” ( 2 times ) and press the Track UP/Next Track key
Your radio will require one of the following procedures.
Type 1 During the code request mode, while holding the
DISP key depressed, press and hold the Volume UP or DOWN key for 3
seconds (so that “…” disappears). Then using
your remote enter your code.
Type 2 Press the "Auto"
button and "Track up" on face of radio at the same time.
The four dash lines ( . . . . ) should "disappear".
Then
using your remote enter your code.
Type 3 Model# DPX-4020
and DPX-4030 Press and hold the 1 then the 6 preset key (preset
keys are the buttons on face of radio for storing you "favorite"
radio stations). "C" should display. Then using your
remote, enter your code.
Enter your number from the
remote control unit. Your code number is 5227 (KCAR)
* Press
numeric key “5” ( 2 times ) and press the Track UP/Next
Track key * Press numeric key “2” ( 3 times ) and
press the Track UP/Next Track key * Press numeric key “2”
( 1 time ) and press the Track UP/Next Track key * Press numeric
key “7” ( 2 times ) and press the Track UP/Next Track key
The security is canceled and the set enters the TUNER mode!
:) POSITIVE FEEDBACK :) A FixYa rating would be fantastic for helping you out
with this techo tip.:) A FixYa vote is a great reward for the challenge of solving your problem
The sensor is a resistive load sensor. The resistance changes as the motor gets hot. Solder the wires back onto the board and whilst keeping the model off of the ground, put it into drive mode. If it doesn't go, then wet your finger and bridge the two solder points on the sensor. Don't worry, you will not get any electric shock as the voltage and current are too low.
If it still doesn't drive, then wiggle the motor wiring at the motor. If still nothing, then press lightly on that sensor pcb. There may be a broken track on it. If it is broken, then you cannot solder it. You then need to go to Maplins (if in the UK) and buy a small bottle of pure silver paint. Where the solder points meet the circuit resistive track (it'll be black carbon looking), paint one blob of silver conductive paint onto each of the track beginnings. Let those dry (five minutes) and then try it. It should work. The silver paint will only work if the wet finger trick on the black carbon track works. If no carbon track, then it may be a thermal resistor (thermistor). Replace it. Maplin sells them too, so just buy a few different types (very cheap) and temporarily solder one in place until it works.
You may have this
posted in the wrong product category. Please select another category
appropriate to the problem and re-post the problem so the correct
expert will see and respond to the question..
there are literally hundreds of codes that would turn on the check engine light. the track off and vsc lights come on together, indicating a problem with the traction control system. again, many different items will turn these lights on. the only way to narrow it down is to hook it up to an OBD-II diagnostic tool and find out all the codes that are listed. if you don't have one, take it to a shop
take it back to the dealer and either have them diagnose, reprogram, or replace the computer / module(s) that control those items. i'm willing to bet that there was a liquid spill / spike in the electrical system and or broken / damaged computer,module. all of these items are controlled by some computer/module somewhere.
Ok well there could be a few things going on here. It is possible that A: your third stick is damaged which I'm assuming you dismissed through your installation of one at a time, B: the third dimm slot is damaged and is unusable, C: the dimm slot is turned off in your bios.
Now looking at the Shuttle A161 motherboard it would appear you have a primary dimm slot and then expansion dimm slots (technically these are called the controller dimm slot and the estensions)
The controller slot which is offeset from the other two should have your largest ram, make sure the ram you stick in this slot isn't a stick that requires dual recognition. Some ram is designed to work in a pair even in the early PC100 class ram. Most PC100 ram you'll find now requires the sticks to work in pairs and the ram is coded for this. (Especially since PC100 is on its way out very fast.) The expansion slots can be fitted with a pair that will work together. I doubt that your third and primary slot is turned off as it is the controller slot. If none of your ram works in this slot replace the old ram in to this slot and just use the two expansion slots. It may not be as much ram as you want but the motherboard has presets that are just problematic.
My general advice however is, that if you're running this motherboard which is fairly out of date, I'd upgrade to a new computer. Buying a cheap Dell desktop or even a barebones off of newegg.com and transfering your current Harddrive and what not over would probably be easier for you and will carry you for the next five years or so.
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