Doubt to be the fuse,,, inside left hand side on the power board... prob believe prob being small capacitor on the same board , 22nf 630dc/300ac just replaced mine via answer from peppe on this site, cost 0.50pence (uk) works as new
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There are a total of 8 fuses of varying types, wattage, and amperage ratings.
Disconnect the power cord to your surround receiver and let it sit for a while; hopefully capacitor drain will have occurred; just the same be careful not to contact any of the high voltage ones. They can knock you on your boom-boom or send you to the Pearly Gates before it's your time.
Remove the casement cover; look for the Printed Wiring Board (PWB) labeled REG_PWB...this is the regulator printed wiring board.
Following the circuitry from the main transformer there are 2 (two) fuses; one is located at position number F901 and the other at F902. Both are Time Lag 382 series radial lead fuses made by LITTLE FUSE. And both are 5-amp 250volt rated fuses- check for continuity using an Ohmmeter with tone. If you get tone, the are okay. If not, you'll have to de-solder them and solder in new one(s)
On the same board, there are 2 (two) fuse resistors rated at 0.33 Ohms, 1 watt; check their resistance values using the Ohmmeter scale. You will find their position markings at R903 and R904 on the PWB. If your resistant readings are below the spec values, you'll have to replace them.
The remaining fuses will be found on the PWB labeled, Standby PWB A. Check them using the continuity tester with tone.
Between position markings F701 and F703 the schematic shows a 10-amp/250 volt fuse
At position marking 701 there is a time lag series 6.3-amp/250 volt fuse.
At position marking F702 and F703 are 2 more fuses, both are the T382 "Little Fuse" series fuses rated at 3.15-amps/250 volt.
I believe that covers it...hope all works out well. :)
The KM-209 amp does have an impedance switch on the rear & if you are running a high load with multiple speakers connected to both A & B outputs you could be seriously damaging the amp.
Look at all your speakers and see what impedance they run on (usually 4 or 8 ohms.) and switch the amp to the corresponding impedance.
check your wiring and the speakers for shorts...also, you need to look at the back of the amp..there should be an impedance rating for the speakers..it will be in ohms...if your speakers are lower than the rating on the amp then the fuse will blow as this causes the amplifier to overload..if the amp is rated for 8 ohms and you connect 4 ohm speakers this can cause this issue
if you're blowing fuses, there is a reason. the most prevalent reason for this is shorted speakers, while the final amp is supposed to be protected by fused speakers, many times they don't work fast enough to protect the amp. If this unit is brand new like you say, put the old fuse (blown one) back in and close the unit up, hopefully you haven't destroyed the tab that shows the case had been opened, this unit should be under warranty, take it back or send it back (with authorization) to where you bought it, don't tell them you opened up the case or you will void warranty. good luck
Could be possible considering the power amp would be running on a higher voltage rail than the preamp. It really depends on how the manufacturer designed the power supply. If they just have a step down transformer driving a bridge rectifier and then derive the voltage for the preamp by regulating with some for of linear regulator than the fuse theory is not correct. Best bet would be to pop it open and examine what comes after the transformers secondary. Depending on the power this amp is capable of the power supply could be a switch mode instead of linear. You can tell by the weight of the amp, heavy = linear light = switch mode.
Even though I don't have a schematic, if you have a VOM, (Volt-Ohm, Milli-Ammeter) we can start. Just because tubes are old doesn't mean they are used up. If a tube doesn't light up that would be a bad one, but they are in parallel off a winding of the power transformer. 1.) Check the on/off switch with the ohmmeter and the line cord for conductivity. 2.) Check the primary winding of the transformer for a low ohms reading. (less than ten ohms). 3.) Some where between the power switch and the pwr. trans. should be a fuse. After these three you should be able to put 120vac. to the unit and bring it back on. Get back with us, Dale