Question about Roper RS22AQXKQ Side by Side Refrigerator

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RS22AWXBW01 freezer Coils have frozen over in freezer, Ice maker not functioning, no cooling in refer side. Could Thermostat, timer, or defrost coil be problem?

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Defrost coil maybe has problem

Posted on Jul 05, 2008

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Freezer of my Jenn-Air side-by-side refrigerator is not keeping items, especially ice cream, frozen. The ice maker has also stopped making ice.


Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this will help in solving the problem, do take care......

Jun 09, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

First refrigerator stopped cooling, next freezer. Seemed like it was trying to defrost but their was lots of ice built up on coils. Jen-Air side by side, counter depth model number JCB2388ARB.


Causes of ice build up on coils:
Not enough freon (leak). Coil defrost heater not working (Coils on all freezers freeze up, but you should not notice). Coil defrost timer not working. Compressor thermostat not working (or end fell out of proper location).
:o).

Jun 04, 2011 | Jenn-Air JCB2388G Side by Side...

1 Answer

We have A GE HSS25GFPAWW side by side and the freezer doesn't defrost so the fresh food side gets warm. We pulled the panel off and the coils are frozen, the fan works. Could it be the heater coil or the...


Yes very much possible that temperature sensor( defrost thermostat) or heater coils ( defrost heater) is faulty.. If you see, too much ice frost collected there, then its defrost related issue. First try manual defrost reset procedure. The procedure is as follows: ----

First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. It will take near to 4 hours to get run in its proper cooling cycle. Then check, if the problem returns again. Then its defrost board problem. -------------

If it's again building up ice that means the unit is not defrosting. It's starting the cooling procedure, and then while defrosting, it's not working. The defrost assembly consists of three main parts. The defrost thermostat, the defrost heater and defrost board. Any of the one is not functioning. When thermostat sense the maximum cooling, it triggers the defrost heater to start heating and this defrosts the ice collected on the coils and the system works. Both thermostat and heater are controlled by defrost board. First the thermostat and defrost heater to be checked, if both check ok by meter and visually, then its defrost board causing the problem. You can get required parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

May 04, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ge profile PSS26MGP side by side installed in Oct 2008. Background: on 1-03-2011 freeze-refer temps approx 13 and 48, apples in top deli-fresh drawer were frozen. Ice maker not making ice, minimal water...


The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
*One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.


On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a Side x Side style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing,or an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor.

Feb 07, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Not cooling


Roy,
Are the evaporator coils in the freezer frozen up?
The evaporator is located behind the cover in the back of the freezer.
If so this may be a defrost issue.
The adaptive defrost timer may have failed.
This is located in the ref. side inside the front control pannel.

If not then you may have a freon leak.
This would have to be repaired by a qualified technician.

Jan 15, 2010 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Freezer and frige not that cold


The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp ..
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Aug 30, 2009 | Neff K3965XO Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Kenmore 52532101 side by side freezer and refrigerator not cooling - any suggestions? Doesn't appear to be frozen up.


Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

Aug 25, 2009 | Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side...

1 Answer

I have a top freezer/refrigerator and notice that ice is accumulating in the freezer and underneath the freezer in the fridge. What are my settings supposed to be set at? What should I do?


It sounds as if your refrigerator has stopped automatic defrosting of the evaporator coil or has a plugged defrost drain.. Below is some information provided by: www.repairclinic.com, to help you understand what may be wrong with your unit. If it is not cooling properly, you may be able to get it cooling again, temporarily by removing all perishable items, unplugging the unit, and allowing it to stand idle wth the doors open. This will allow the ice to melt, which will allow air flow to resume normally through the unit. Allow several hours for the ice to thaw completely, then close the doors and return it to an operational status. Put water in both compartments and when satisfied with the results of temperature, i.e. frozen in freezer and cold in fresh food compartment, you can put perishables back in. This will allow normal operation for only about a week until the defective part gets replaced, then it will start warming up again.
If the drain is plugged then the diagrams should show the routing so you can clean it out.
Today, all but the smaller, apartment-sized refrigerators are self-defrosting. Self-defrosting means what it implies--though frost continues to accumulate inside the refrigerator, it melts automatically. The self-defrosting system has three functional components:

Defrost timer
Defrost heater
Defrost thermostat.
Defrost timer The timer is like a clock. It continually advances, 24 hours a day. Every 6 to 8 hours, the timer turns off the cooling system of the refrigerator and turns on the defrost heater.

Defrost heater The defrost heater is similar to the burners on an electric stove. It's located just beneath the cooling coils, which are concealed behind a panel in the freezer compartment. The heater gets hot. And, because it's close to the cooling coils, any ice or frost build-up melts.

As the frost and ice melt, the resulting water drips into a trough. The trough is connected to a tube that drains the water into a shallow pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. The water is then evaporated by a fan that blows warm air from the compressor motor over the pan and out the front of the refrigerator.

Defrost thermostat The process ends after either the amount of time specified on the timer or when the defrost thermostat near the cooling coils senses that the heat near the coils has reached a specific temperature.


Detailed parts diagram:
http://www.repairclinic.com/Refrigerator-Freezer-On-Top-Appliance-Diagram

Aug 13, 2009 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

The freezer has ice build up on vents


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 
also click the links below for more help
It's stopped completely 
It's not cool
Cooling is poor
It's noisy 
It leaks
The freezer compartment is icing up
The food in the refrigerator freezes
There's water dripping inside the refrigerator
The refrigerator never cycles off
The ice maker has a problem
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem

Dec 06, 2008 | Kenmore 53642 / 53644 Side by Side...

5 Answers

No water to ice maker


  • The water line that's attached to the back of the refrigerator. Make sure you have good water flow. If the flow is poor, repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water.


  • The water-inlet valve. Replace it if it has failed.

  • Jun 26, 2008 | Kenmore 5553 / 655532 / 55534 / 55539 Side...

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