Question about GE Microwave Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:
- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
There should be a very helpful "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel.
Please write back with more details if you need further help.
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Posted on Dec 04, 2007
You may have a failure of the H.V. rectifier. I would recommend that a trained technician replace this part due to the high voltage potential.
Posted on Jun 03, 2008
it goes dead or blows the breaker or GFI when you plug it in or open or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.
Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. Other times, it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which
we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid.
This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.
This can often also affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on too.
Details of our service and critical safety information and disassembly information is at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
Feel free to contact me directly.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
William E. Miller
Posted on Aug 12, 2008
Sadly, GE does not make individual parts available for these controllers, so they cannot be repaired.
You have to replace the control panel sub-assembly (part number WB07X10733 in your case) and the best price I've found on that is $370.32 here (compared to $483.25 direct from GE).
In my opinion, this does not do much to inspire brand loyalty...
Or you may be able to find a whole oven on eBay for about that or less.
Sorry to bear bad news. Good luck.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer
Posted on May 30, 2010
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