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Have a kenmore model 110.64962300 that doesnt heat. Back panel is spot welded on top below control panel. How do I access heater elements

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Before you begin, UNPLUG DRYER.
Remove bottom access panel by using a putty knife to depress panel clips (item 46).
have a kenmore model 110.64962300 - 9a8553d.jpg

Check the High limit fuse and heater for continuity. Heater (item 14) <20 ohms and HI-limit (item 47) <0.3 ohms.

2a3a1b9.jpg

If the heater or HI-Limit has failed it may be that the exhaust airflow has become blocked or restricted. Check the hose in the back ofthe machine for crushed hose. If OK, the vent pipe may need cleaning...check out www.linteater.com for vent cleaning info.

If you need further assistance please let me know..
Regards
reg501
The FixYa Team


Posted on Jul 05, 2008

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1 Answer

Does not heat


Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
There are a few reasons why this is happening i have listed the most common items to check listed below
1st is the heating element this is the most common thing that fails
The heating elements are a common problem with dryers not heating and are an easy do-it-yourself repair. On the Newton style dryers, the heating element is located under the tub on the right in a round heater-can. To access it, first remove the front panel by removing the two screws on each side at the bottom of the front panel or if it's a newer model, prize the clips under the front panel. Then pull out the bottom of the front panel until the top clips release.This should release the top so that you can lift it up. Once up, you should see the heater at the back. Checking the heating element is the same for both styles. First disconnect power from dryer then unplug the wires going to the heating element. Next using your ohmmeter , check to see if you have continuity between the terminals on the heating element.
If you don't,have continuity the heating element is bad and needs replacing, if there is continuity the heating element is ok.

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How do I take off the back to get to elements and fuse on my kenmore elite dryer, I took screws off but the top appears to be welded.


Getting to the heating circuits is not the same on every model of dryer. Some dryers have heating circuits in the REAR of the dryer, some have the heating circuits located inside the cabinet UNDER the drum and others have heating circuits BEHIND the drum.

If your dryer has the lint screen on the TOP of the unit, you will need to remove the BACK panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits.

If the dryer has the lint screen in the DOOR, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower toe panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel.

If you do not have a toe panel, you will need to lift the dryer top and remove the entire FRONT panel to access the internal components.

If you have further questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER so I can determine how your dryer is constructed.

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hello there:
here is some troubleshooting ideas for you to help
A dryer sometimes won't heat or heats too slowly because of a variety of reasons. By following the guidelines below, you can inspect the heating elements on a gas or electric dryer to pinpoint the source of the problem.
Electric heating elements, found in electric dryers, are self-contained units located in the back of the dryer. A defective heating element is frequently the source of no-heat or drying problems. Remove the back service panel to gain access to the elements.
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The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.

Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.

CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.

PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.

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