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Chances are that more than a fuse went. I would follow (internally) the path of the wires from the speaker you mentioned - inside the amp. This should bring you out to the main amp. I think you will find that whatever powers that channel is faulty.
Yes amps buzz when something gets near them - say a pen or probe and if you know what it is safe to touch a finger! Fortunatly for you the left channel is the same as the right. So if you believe it's the pre-amp work backwards from the where the power amp connects to the pre-amp, going through the pre-amp stage by stage - prodding the parts. Remember a buzz in the right a buzz in the left! No buzz in the left but one in the right fault found! Ignore the power supply it's nothing to do with that as it's common to both channels.
If you take the top off the unit and look inside and if you see one of these IC power amp or something like it then my guess is that has gone! Is it worth reparing? Well if you can read the number on it, you can put it into Google and that will tell you how much one costs! They often have the words STK to start the number sequence. I'm assuming this is a stereo amp!! The music you can hear anyway is the pre-amp stage, which shows that is working. So this is a power amp fault and since it is taken out both channels then it something that has both channels going in to it! And they do!!!!
NO pre-amp required.
Pioneer made it so you can send the pre-amp signal to a larger power amp ( if you want to)...Either there is a switch to jumper the "pre-out" to the "power in" jacks OR you need to connect a couple of RCA (phono style) cables between them
If you have lost both channels then it's something that is common to both that has gone. If one channel has gone, use the good channel as a guide. Here's what to do find the point where the pre-amp outputs to the power amp. With a screwdriver touch that point (make certain you only touch one metal point at a time = don't short anything). It should buzz! work backwards till the buzzing stops. It is easier to test with a channel working, but I think you will soon get to the faulty stage.
PS IC's are allways suspect when both channels out!
PPS Don't touch any power parts with the screwdriver!
Not sure I understand your question, but I will try.
Your CD players, tape decks, etc., connect to the INPUTS on the preamp.
The LINE OUT on the PRE AMP connects to the LINE IN on the POWER AMP.
The pre-amp does some amplification and then it passes the signal along to the power amp, which will do the heavy lifting - driving the speakers.
The connection is usually through a shielded RCA plug cable. THere will be 2 cables from the Pre amp to the power amp - one for the left channel and one for the right channel.
The OUTPUT Of the power amp will connect to the speakers using large, stranded wire cables, sometimes with "banana" plugs that simply plug into the terminals on the power amp and the speaker.
Let me know if this gets your started.
Start with the basics first. 1. With the amp on, in each imput socket plug a dual end phono cable in and touch the right and left plugs with your finger. You should get a buzz on each speaker. No buzz and the channel at that terminal is not working. If none of the terminals buzz. Then the amp is dead.
If some buzz and others not you have a pre-amp problem.
2: Amp Dead. Could be A power supply. B main pre-amp. C Power Amp.
The power supply check for a fuse.
The main pre-amp will only effect both channels if an IC controls both.
The Power Amp will again only loose both channels generally if it is an IC. It will be attached to a big heat sink and have lots of pins comming from it.
If it uses transistors for the main amp, you can check these with an Ohm meter. With the power off place the leads on each terminal of each transistor. If the meter goes fully over (like when you touch the leads together) each way it has shorted.
The thing to remember when repairing stereo amps. Is that the amp is two identical amps joined together. So what happens one side will happen on the other. If both channels don't work look for something that is common to both.
PS never heard of 'cliperd'.
If you are not looking for a warranty repair, any shop that handles high end audio repairs should be able to resolve this for you. Before you ship off the pre-amp, verify that it is, in fact, the pre-amp that is defective. The initial stage of the power amp can cause this as well. Try hooking up another pre-amp instead to verify the problem location.
Hi, please have a look at your supply. The voltage might have gone below 21V on your newer models and 42V on your older models. This you will find near the pre-amp. Look for 2 big Cap's and start from there.