Question about Whirlpool GBD307PDS Electric Double Oven
We ran through the entire auto clean cycle and now no power-door is unlocked and oven is clean. breaker and power fine--How do I get to the thermal fuse(s) to check them. Is there somewhere to get pictures of where to look (what they look like) or instructions. How ridiculous is this for an oven to shut off after auto clean----first time we've used it
I printed down the installation sheets. I could not locate the thermal fuse on the control panel (which was the easiest to get to without removing the oven) so I went ahead and removed the oven. The upper and lower thermal fuses were fine. I put in back into the wall and my husband found the control panel thermal fuse--it was in-line--so we tested it and it was bad. I could not find anyone online that carried this fuse-or even knew the name of it. After much hard work we finally got the info off it--Microtemp KLBALY G4A00 TE 110C. Nowhere could I find a replacement except for something I am hoping is comparable online at Goodman (?). So while I am waiting for the fuse, I went to Radio Shack who had a thermal inline fuse rated at 128C for coffee pots and hair dryers. Also got some fully insulated crimp on connectors. Hooked it up and it works--havent cooked yet--to do cookies soon to test it. So far it seems like everything is running ok. I WILL NOT EVER USE THE AUTO CLEAN again. I dont get why the company has let it lie without helping unknowing consumers
Posted on Jul 06, 2008
We have a Whirlpool dual-oven (over and under) that has the control panel on the top above the upper over. We had the same problem as described, fuse failed during auto clean. I pulled the top cover to get to the power connection and circuit boards. I found a couple of hot-spots on the control board, but confirmed the thermal fuse was the real problem with my meter.
When the fuse fails, it works like a standard switch. It’s either "on" allowing electricity to pass through it, or "off" in its failed state. The only difference is it triggers when the environment around it exceeds its rated temperature. The one described above “Microtemp KLBALY G4A00 TE 110C “ looks to be designed to fail at 110 degrees Celsius or 230 degrees Fahrenheit.
The following picture is taken from above, on the left side, facing forward:
Link to the manufactures web site
Link to the product specifications PDF
All things considered, as long as the Radio Shack replacements specifications closely match the originals:
- Electrical load: 10 amps @ 250VAC (15 amps @ 120VAC, 5 amps @ 24VDC)
- Fail temperature 110 C / 230 F
You SHOULD be ok. But remember, when fuses fail, they usually do for a reason. Just replacing the bad one and the lights come back on doesn’t constitute a “repair”. If you choose to ignore common sense and burn your house down around you, it’s probably a good thing since the gene pool needs a good flushing.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Look for a manual lever to unlock the oven. If there is one, it will probably swing back and forth horizontally, just below the upper edge of the oven door.
Swing the locking lever, if one is present, all the way to the left. This should unlock the oven. If there is no manual lever to unlock the oven, it may be unlocked using push-button controls.
Check to see if the oven is in a self-cleaning cycle, or has just completed a self-cleaning cycle. If so, the door will unlock automatically once the oven has finished the cleaning cycle and cooled completely, which may take several hours. You cannot unlock the oven before it has cooled.
Unlock the "Clean/Off" button. Depending on the brand and model of your oven, the button may display both of these designations or just one. If your oven door is locked, but the oven is not warm and is not in a cleaning cycle, unlock it by pressing and holding the "Clean/Off" button.
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