Question about Whirlpool GBD307PDS Electric Double Oven

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Whirpool rbd275yPDT11 no power after auto clean

We ran through the entire auto clean cycle and now no power-door is unlocked and oven is clean. breaker and power fine--How do I get to the thermal fuse(s) to check them. Is there somewhere to get pictures of where to look (what they look like) or instructions. How ridiculous is this for an oven to shut off after auto clean----first time we've used it

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  • Anonymous May 25, 2009

    I tried the auto clean for the first time and both of the elements won't heat up. Oven is still new and was used less that 20 times. 



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I printed down the installation sheets. I could not locate the thermal fuse on the control panel (which was the easiest to get to without removing the oven) so I went ahead and removed the oven. The upper and lower thermal fuses were fine. I put in back into the wall and my husband found the control panel thermal fuse--it was in-line--so we tested it and it was bad. I could not find anyone online that carried this fuse-or even knew the name of it. After much hard work we finally got the info off it--Microtemp KLBALY G4A00 TE 110C. Nowhere could I find a replacement except for something I am hoping is comparable online at Goodman (?). So while I am waiting for the fuse, I went to Radio Shack who had a thermal inline fuse rated at 128C for coffee pots and hair dryers. Also got some fully insulated crimp on connectors. Hooked it up and it works--havent cooked yet--to do cookies soon to test it. So far it seems like everything is running ok. I WILL NOT EVER USE THE AUTO CLEAN again. I dont get why the company has let it lie without helping unknowing consumers

Posted on Jul 06, 2008

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We have a Whirlpool dual-oven (over and under) that has the control panel on the top above the upper over. We had the same problem as described, fuse failed during auto clean. I pulled the top cover to get to the power connection and circuit boards. I found a couple of hot-spots on the control board, but confirmed the thermal fuse was the real problem with my meter.

When the fuse fails, it works like a standard switch. It’s either "on" allowing electricity to pass through it, or "off" in its failed state. The only difference is it triggers when the environment around it exceeds its rated temperature. The one described above “Microtemp KLBALY G4A00 TE 110C “ looks to be designed to fail at 110 degrees Celsius or 230 degrees Fahrenheit.

The following picture is taken from above, on the left side, facing forward:

whirpool rbd275yPDT11 no power after auto clean - 95842ab.jpg

Link to the manufactures web site

Link to the product specifications PDF

All things considered, as long as the Radio Shack replacements specifications closely match the originals:

- Electrical load: 10 amps @ 250VAC (15 amps @ 120VAC, 5 amps @ 24VDC)
- Fail temperature 110 C / 230 F

You SHOULD be ok. But remember, when fuses fail, they usually do for a reason. Just replacing the bad one and the lights come back on doesn’t constitute a “repair”. If you choose to ignore common sense and burn your house down around you, it’s probably a good thing since the gene pool needs a good flushing.

Posted on Jul 03, 2009


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