Question about Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: dryer spins but no heat
Did you check the power coard where it connects to the dryer? Start at the source. Make sure that you have at least 110v on each line. The dryer will tumble on 110v but requires 220v to heat. If you have 220v then check the t-stat and thermal cut-out on the blower. Check all wires for loose or burnt terminals. If all that is good it may be a bad motor or timer/control. I'm happy that you have a meter.
Posted on Dec 17, 2007
SOURCE: Whirlpool dryer won't heat
hi. thanks for letting me answer.the only part that was not mentioned. is the timer contacs Y & R . the heat contacts in the heating circuit. thanks
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
SOURCE: Hi, I have a electric LG
Sure, looks like the high limit is your problem, but why did it fail? If your vent is good as you say, the dryer should cycle on the operating thermo (thermistor sensor in this case), and the high limit should never trip. I'd replace the 6323EL2001B thermistor too (back side of the blower housing), along with the 6931EL3003D and the 6931EL3001E which are mounted on the element assembly. Non heating issues can also be caused by a bad relay on the board or a bad centrifical switch in the motor.
Posted on Oct 05, 2008
SOURCE: No heat in a Profile
The thermistor at the back of the dryer is the inlet thermistor and it has a normal resistance of around 2270 ohm at room temperature, not zero. A zero resistance means the inlet thermistor is shorted and the control board sees it as an overheating condition and does not activate the heater relay. Replace the inlet thermistor with part number WE04X10111.
The thermistor on the blower housing is the outlet thermistor and it has a normal resistance of around 10000 ohm at room temperature. The heating is good at 17 ohms and inlet safety thermostat and the high-limit thermostat on the heater housing and the outlet safety thermostat on the blower housing must all have continuity.
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Posted on Jul 22, 2011
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