a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
1) Remove the (2 or more) screws holding the plastic bottom plate (that the iron stands up on).
The screws are likely to be #20 Torx "Security" screws -- for which you will need a special bit for your nut/screwdriver. A kit of various sizes of Torx security bits will cost you about $10.
2) Remove the plastic cord-holder assembly from the iron.
2a) If the cord-holder is held in place with screws (you are in luck!), simply unscrew them. If you see no screws, then it is being held in place by several (probably 4) plastic tabs that you must simultaneously release. This makes the job much more fiddly. Use a small/medium blade screwdriver to carefully bend and hold each of the plastic tabs out of the way of the latches. You'll need one screwdriver per tab/latch! Take care not to break the tabs...
2b) Carefully wiggle/pull/work the cord-holder assembly out of the iron taking care not to bend the pins of the integral plug (inside the iron) that are seated in the cord-holder socket. Basically, with the iron resting on its metal surface, pull/pry/wiggle the cord-holder straight upward until the cord-holder (socket) pulls free of the (3 or more) stiff wires that function as a "plug".
3) Note that there are 2 crimp-on connectors attaching the 2 wires of the cord to the rest of the wires in the iron. Take a photo of the wires and jot down notes of which wires are connected together. NOTE: One of the cord wires is "neutral" and is attached to the wider spade at the plug end of the cord. Typically the "neutral" wire is marked with a white stripe or ridge down length of the cord. Don't mix up the "neutral" wire and the "hot" wire when you re-connect them in a later step!
4) Cut off the crimp-on connectors and separate all the wires.
5) Remove the cord from the system of zig-zagging "strain-relief" notches that hold the cord securely in place. You may have to remove a small plastic clip first.
6) Cut off 6 inches of the cord. (Or supply a new cord, if the cord has been shortened too much in previous repairs.) This eliminates the broken section wire within the cord. You may use an ohm meter to verify that both wires have a low resistance again (less than 1 ohm).
7) Route the cord back into the "strain-relief" notches in the cord-holder. Don't forget the plastic clip (if there was one)...
8) Strip all wires, exposing about 3/8" of copper on each.
9) Referring to your notes and photo, re-connect all wires using proper-sized plastic wire-nuts for secure connections.
10) Re-attach the cord-holder to the iron body. Make sure you line up the stiff wire pins with the cord-holder socket. Push the cord-holder into place and secure it (via screws or snap-in-place plastic tabs).
11) Replace the plastic cover, taking care to position the wire-nuts and wires to allow it to drop into place without forcing it. Secure the cover with screws.
see the diagram attached. Remember the input will be 120Vac, and NOT 220Vac.Normally the red vs red, blue vs blue, black vs black, white vs white. DO NOT alter any color with another color God bless you
Visual Check: 1. Do you smell burned electrical wire? If none, 2. Check the cord for damage, and the outlet for electricity ((plug in another device and see if it turns on)). If none, 3. Does the water reservoir or iron face have visible mineral deposits (i.e. need cleaning)?
1. On COLD, UNPLUGGED iron, clean working surface with non-abrasive cloth.
2. Try Vinegar & Water cleaning to remove mineral deposits (if warranty allows): Mix equal parts water and white vinegar (abt. 1/3 cup each). Pour into water reservoir. Turn on the iron with steam option. Allow to work, upright, for 2-3 minutes. Turn all controls to low before unplugging. Drain into sink ...carefully, it may be hot! Flush with plain water. Reheat iron and test on scrap cloth to clear any residue.
BE SAFE and work carefully. If iron still does not heat after thorough inspection and cleaning, the unit may need a qualified technician.
YOU Must contact to Rowenta, for get help via chat or phone. Normally the electrical diagram is not comming with any iron. However the iron electric coming with 2 wires red +black. and attached to the 2 wires from the iron
1 Fill the iron's steam receptacle with white vinegar or CLR, a product used to clean coffee pots. CLR is available in department stores.
2 Plug in and set the iron to its steam setting.
3 Operate as usual. When the vinegar or CLR begins to steam, operate the iron as you would normally. Press it over an old, clean towel as the vinegar or CLR loosens sediment and dirt from the appliance.
4 Continue ironing until all of the cleaning solution has steamed out. Repeat the cleaning process if necessary until the iron no longer oozes discolored liquid and the ironing surface is clean.
5 Fill the iron steamer receptacle with distilled water and set the appliance to steam.
6 Continue steaming until the smell of vinegar or CLR is gone.
7 Prevent future mineral buildup by using distilled water for steam in your iron, rather than tap water. Joe. Thanks for choosing Fixya!