The power light blinks solid blue every four seconds or so (it?s off in-between). The screen is blank. None of the buttons on the side function (such as ?menu?). I have a second similar monitor from the...
Two days ago I received a Gateway 900w FDP1975W Monitor from a friend. He told me that he would have to let it rest and it would work for about a hour or so and flash green with lines, then Flashing blue power light, then nothing. I have seen this problem on several LCD monitors, including Dell and Sceptre. The problem with the blue power light on/off is with the power supply inside the back of the monitor. The manufacturer runs so close to the minimum that these power supplies burn out in about 2 years. I am typing this messege using the very same dead monitor. How you ask? You must remove the trim from around the out side of the monitor - this one had two(2) screws in the back. bottom, outside corners then the trim can be pried off (dissconnect power button cable) - then you must remove the LCD screen four(4) screws in the 4 corners. (remove with caution - lay it face down on a flat surface with soft cloth or towel - do not break LCD) lift up LCD (a little) from plastic case and remove two pairs of blue/pink wires connected to side of power supply.(these are in two sets of four - two connectors at topside and two connectors at bottomside - make note of which goes where - you must depress cliplocks to unclip) Lift a little higher and remove the main cable from back of power supply. Remove LCD to a safe place. Unscrew three(3) small, four(4) medium and one(1) large screw from the power supply cover and remove. The power board will be on top of the control board, remove four(4) screws holding down the power board and pull up to disconnect from control board (careful the power cord socket connection HAS to slide straight up out of its holder!) Then remove screw holding ground wire and remove the power board. NOW WHAT, do you say? Look at the Capacitors - on mine, it hade 4 680uf@25volt 2 470uf@25volt 3 220uf@25Volt 1 10uf@50volt and 1 22uf@50Volt . The 680,470,220 were all swollen (shorting/shorted) This probably happend because one of the small 10 or 22 control caps were going (high resistance) I went to radio shack and got 35volt (yes they fit and yes they work) 220, 470 and1000 (Yes 1000 fit and yes they work) (Think of capacitors as a glass of water - when they filter the power they fill only to the charge of the rail - This case 20volts (35 gives more space) and the MicroFarad uf to the use of the circuit - now I dont know all about electronics - but the small caps that control the rail MUST be the same 10uf - 10uf 50volt - 50volt (they control the circuit power and their values are designed into the circuit - but the large ones filter the power and in this case, are limited only by the space they have to fit into and cost of the parts - but these can be upped) Now with the larger 1000uf caps and the 470/220/10/22uf all replaced (I replaced the 10uf ad 22uf control caps because this is what probably caused the overvolt/overheat (they didnt show bad - just replace them all!) Cost $13.00us - Put all parts back together - Power board ground wire & screw first - slide power board power cord socket down and connect the 8 -10 pin connector and push down firmly - put back the four(4) small screws and replace power supply cover - put back the three(3) small and four(4) medium and one(1) large screw - reconnect the main connector and the two upper and two lower side connectors. Place LCD all the way down on the cover and replace all four(4) corner screws. Plug power button cable back in and rest trim on top of monitor - Plug power cord in to test - blue light should come on and stay on 'Gateway' logo should flash - then with no signal should go to amber - test with computer - If you soldered all your connection correctly - the monitor will work as good as new!
Aug 17, 2009 |
Gateway FPD1975W 19" LCD Monitor