Porter Cable C2002 150 Psi 6 Gal Compressor Logo
Posted on Dec 23, 2010
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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The compressor runs but doesn't build up pressure, the relief valve is closed.

  • Anonymous Dec 23, 2010

    Is this a brand-new compressor? I just answered a question the other day about this same model, right out of the box with the same problem. You say the relief valve is closed, I assume you mean the drain valve. Anyway, the answer was you have a bad unit and should take it back. If this is a new problem on a previously working compressor, then one of several thing have failed. Ask again with more info and I may be able to help.

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1 Answer

Repair Ahjoshe

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  • Porter Cable Master 885 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 23, 2010
Repair Ahjoshe
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If your relief valve is working properly the next two usual failures on this compressor are the piston seal or the valve plate. Remove the cylinder head and check the valve plate. If even one of the reed valves is chipped, bent or otherwise compromised, the compressor won't build pressure. The replacement part for the valve plate is part number NO17592 and should be available at or can be ordered at most Dewalt/Porter Cable repair centers. Next check the seal on top of the piston. If it's compromised, same effect. Unfortunately you can't buy just the seal, you have to buy the connecting rod kit, part number KK-4964.

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Leaking around Pressure Switch. Ordered & replaced switch but still leaking

Some pressure switches have a valve that reliefs the compressor head pressure when the motor stops and closes the head pressure relief valve when the motor runs.
There is a check valve that keeps air pressure from coming back to the compressor head and the relief valve.
I think the check valve is leaking tank pressure to the relief valve and compressor head.
The check valve is where the pressure switch mounts on to and it mounts threaded on to the compressor tank.
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My compressor is building to much pressure and blowing out the relief valve. what do I check

You didn't give the model of your compressor so, for an electric model: Check your gages while the tanks are filling. If the pressure gets to the rated high pressure level for your model and keeps going until the relief valve pops, the problem is with the pressure switch. It isn't turning the motor off when it's supposed to. If the relief valve pops before getting to the max pressure the tanks are supposed to be at then the spring in the valve is broken or weakened to where it pops too early. Replace the relief valve.
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Is the reed valve part of the pressure switch

relief valve should only open in a over pressure condition. If it is opening prior to reaching pressure ....replace it.
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When it runs it sounds like an air leak from the engine and the tank does not fill. i do not hear air leaking when not running.

This sounds like the compression release valve is leaking. This valve bleeds the cylinder pressure to allow the motor to start without having the load on it. On this size compressor the valve is often built into the pressure switch. It is a little "pintle" type valve and you will hear hissing while unit is running but the opressure will not build up very much. When the pressure switch calls for the unit to run, the little valve closes with the switch. COntamination or other stiction keeping the valve form closing will cause the problem. You will find this near a tube that goes to the pressure switch. The switch itself hooks into the tank, but this little tube will connect to the cylinder head or the main tube from the compressor. Yours may look similar to ones at this site:
http://www.generalairproducts.com/Fire-Protection-Products/accessories-pressure-switch-a-switches-check-drain-a-pressure-relief-valves.html
The valve is also commonly called the "unloader" valve.
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Compressor not building enough pressure.only 5lbs.

It seems that your cut off switch or your relief valve is not working. If the cut off switch stops the compressor at 5psi instead of 100/120, then the switch is defective. If the relief valve operates (loud whooshing sound and the compressor keeps running), then the relief valve needs replacing. Normally the relief valve wears out first as the seal gets worn or the spring fails.
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It will not build pressure in the tank.

There is a pressure relief valve somewhere around the motor. Make sure it is closed. If the relief valve isnt leaking air while the compressor is running you probably have a loose hose on the line going from the compressor to the guages or the overpressure valve. Something under the motor/compressor cover.
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Can not build working pressure pressure......

The most likely problem is a burned out "run capacitor" on the motor. If you continue to try to run your compressor in this condition it will burn out the "starting capacitor" and/or motor as well.
It's also possible that you have a bad start up pressure relief valve, this valve will be between the compressor and the tank. If this valve is working properly you should hear a hiss of air as the compressor motor shuts off.
A reasonable motor repair shop should be able to replace the run capacitor for $20-$50 plus inflation, depending on your area.
If you need to test the start up pressure relief valve, you need to take it loose at the compressor or tank. Just loosening the line may not work depending on the style used. Note: sometimes just taking this loose to test it causes you to have to replace the valve.
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Runs but no pressure

It will sound silly, but do you have pressure relief valve closed, and do you have your tank valve closed also. Check yhem first.
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My compressor shuts off by itself after running a few moments. My pressure relief valve, that I used to be able to pull and release air from the tank, no longer exhausts. It only gives a click and a puff...

SOUNDS LIKE THERE COULD BE DIRT OR RUST IN THE RELIEF VALVE REMOVE AND CHECK FOR OBSTRUCTIONS RELIEVE ALL PRESSURE BEFORE DOING THIS. SHOULD BE A DRAIN **** ON THE VERY BOTTOM OF THE TANK
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A/c compressor runs with dash switch off then loses freon from relief valve

we can solve this, but i need more info, a/c compressor should not run with the dash switch to off, so there could be a short in the switch or something is powering your a/c compressor.

another thing is the gas being relieve to your relief valve, your condenser fan could not be running there by creating a high head pressure to relieve on the relief valve or the valve could be open already and not the type where it seats back if the pressure is already low.

are you just putting gas right now as these things happens?

if so, you could have a clogged in your system, building a high head pressure to relieve in the valve.

the clogged could be in the filter dryer, or the expansion valve inside the evaporator coil.

tnx 4 using fixya,


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