Question about Whirlpool Dryers
PSUinNC The first thing you have to do is to check in what position is the temperature switch . If the temperature switch is in the "air fluff" position, then the heater will stay "off". If this is not an issue, reset the circuit breaker. The motor needs only 120V to run, but the heater needs 240V and if one of legs is missing, the dryer would not heat. If it did not solve the problem, you have to perform full diagnosis. You will need some simple hand tools and a meter to check a continuity. If you are fillng you can handle it, let me know and I'll give you the step by step instructions. Gendos...post back
Posted on Feb 26, 2007
SOURCE: dryer won't tumble
Check thermal fuse located behind rear panel mounted on dryer (depending on model of the dryer) duct. Fuse is the component with 2 blue wires and is white in color. Try jumping 2 wires together or OHM out fuse. Fuse being bad is a sign that either
a) Dryer vent is clogged ..... If dryer takes any longer than 1 60 min cycle to dry loads than the vent IS CLOGGED!!
b) Dryer thermostat (next to fuse with 4 wires 2lg red and 2sm)
is not cycling proper
c) some other electrical short causing element not to cycle proper
Check Temp of discharge air with thermometer
on High should cycle on somewhere around 120
and back off at no higher than 170 no less than 155
Posted on Jan 18, 2008
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
HI, check the following to address this issue.
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in.
2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever
The dryer will not start with a broken door switch. Replace the door switch if found defective.
Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.
Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and just the lever. Check your model for more details.
3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
**The most common issue here will be a defective Thermal fuse
Posted on Jul 21, 2009
If you are experiencing longer dry times and poor drying efficiency, the following link can give you some things to check before assuming you have a malfunction with the dryer:
The number one cause of dryer heat related problems is poor exhaust ventilation. If the dryer can't breathe it will not dry efficiently and will cause the heating circuits to overheat to the point of failure. The dryer will actually seem hotter as the heating circuits begin to overheat. This can also become a fire hazard if not resolved. Read through the link provided and review some of the potential causes. Hopefully, this may save you a service call.
Posted on Jan 04, 2010
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