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Re: HOW TO TIGHTEN MOWER BLADE NUT
Check out www.toolpartsdirect.com for parts diagram for proper installation. the 2 last step is the square metal washer then the nut. to install the metal washer the match the shaft guide. if still can't tighten the nut then the problem is the armature ring may drop down.
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If this is just a mounting bolt it will be right-hand threaded meaning that with you looking at the nut/bolt, the nut will turn clockwise to tighten.
Some blade bolts (and some old car lugs nuts are left-hand thread on one side of the car, as is the left pedal on a bicycle) are left-hand threaded and it can get real exciting til you figure out you hand to turn them counterclockwise to tighten
You can figure this out by checking the direction that the blade turns when it is operating and the bolt will tighten the opposite way because if it turned the same way it would loosen off when the motor was turning the blade, so almost univerdsally it will loosen clockwise and tighten counterclockwise.
The blade bolt can be very difficult to remove sometimes and will require an impact wrench. If that doesn't work, you will need to heat up the nut only with a Ox/Acetylene torch, then it will remove easily. Do not heat the nut too much or it will ruin the thread on the spindle when it comes off. Remember to heat the nut only.
If your saw is not equipped with an arbor lock, there are several methods of holding the blade while you tighten or loosen the bolt. First, hand tighten the nut to get it snug. Then you can either wedge a Phillips screwdriver shaft between a blade tooth and the base, or you can use a pair of pliers to squeeze the blade and hold it in place against the base. Be careful not to nick the tips of the blade and be cautious with your hands. Obviously you want to make sure you are spinning the bolt the right way, too. You don't need to really crank bolt down, just firmly tighten it and leave it be.
Locate the spark plug wire, and disconnect it from the spark plug.
Remove the screw that is used to secure the belt cover to the mower with a screwdriver. Take the belt cover off of the mower.
Loosen the belt tension bolt with the socket wrench. The belt tension bolt is located next to the wheel adjustment lever on the left front of the mower.
Pull the front part of the drive belt off of the transmission pulley that is located on top of the motor.
Tilt the mower on its side, and pull the rear part of the drive belt over the mower blade.
Insert the rear of the new drive belt over the mower blade, and place the front of the belt over the transmission pulley.
Tighten the belt tension bolt with the socket wrench.
Locate the adjuster nut located on the underside of the mower near the belt tension bolt.
Tighten the nut with the wrench until it touches the spacer, and slightly loosen the nut so that the spacer can turn.
Set the belt cover back onto the mower, and secure it with the screw.
Re-connect the spark plug wire to the spark plug.
hi. you dont say what make or model but I offer the following. if it's just a single bolt or nut holding the blade it will rely on a bellville type washer (dished ) or will be pegged either side of the nut or bolt, if the later try to drive the pegs down level with the mounting boss, now get a couple of friends to lift the whole deck so you can secure the nut or bolt in a vice (vise) and using both hands turn the blade itself the opposite way that you would turn the nut, this has never failed for me, if the blades counter rotate, one will be left hand thread the other right hand. bear in mind that a rotary blade spins at around 150-200 mph, every time you hit an obstruction (and you will) the blade will tighten particularly if secured with a belleville type washer. best of luck
block off the blade and driver assembly with a 2x4 to keep it from moving
remove the flywheel nut (regular hand force should be sufficient)
tap the 3 holes on the flywheel (if they aren't already threaded) using 1/4inch 20national tap set
remove the flywheel using a flywheel puller -- a harmonic balancer puller which matches the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel also works using 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers
NOTE: (if the blade was removed/reinstalled, tighten the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs) before installing the new flywheel key
remove the sheared flywheel key
clean up the flywheel (wipe off all the dirt and grease)
install the new flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016)
install the flywheel (pull the bail brake handle to get the ball-brake inside the flywheel)
tighten the flywheel nut to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs
Blade Maintenance Warning! Switch off, remove the isolator
key, battery and grassbox before adjusting
or cleaning. Always wear gardening gloves when handling
or working near the sharp blades.
Turn the machine on its right side and inspect
the blade; if blunt or damaged, replace.
Use the following procedure to remove and replace
Insert a screwdriver into hole 26 to lock the
drive. Hold the blade 30 using gardening gloves
(not provided) and use a spanner (not provided)
to remove the blade bolt 29, blade washer 28
and blade 30.
Fit the blade 30, blade washer 28 and the blade
bolt 29. Ensure that the blade is the correct way
up (so that this symbol can be seen located
as in figure I) and tighten the bolt 29 firmly.
Ensure the screwdriver is removed before attempting
to turn the machine on.
If this procedure does not work then try the following;
It is not uncommon for the blade bolt to become seized onto the shaft due to all the gunk and moisture on the underside of the deck. Try to soak the bolt several times over with penetrating oil ( WD 40, PB Blaster, etc). Spray the bolt head, the top of the blade where it contacts the shaft, etc. Do this several times and let the penetrating oil soak in. Hit the bolt head gently several times with a hammer to loosen up the corrosion. Then try to remove the bolt per directions.
Hope this helps, if so Please rate, Thanks, and Good Luck!