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Coleman generator needs repair?

I have a brand new 1400 watt coleman pro force generator. I bought it about two monthes ago and tested it after purchasing. When I tested it I'm afraid that I may have overloaded the generator because I ran a table saw then a power saw to check out it's performance. The circuit breaker never tripped. The generator powered the tools but the load was well over it's capacity. Later I used it to power a PA System and the sound would go on and off. I then hooked up the generator to a Neon sign alone and it would flicker, never steady on.
To me the generator is useless in this condition.
I think the voltage is fluctuating because I fried something in the electrical generator? Can anyone help? I believe Coleman is Out of Business???

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  • james2182 Jul 16, 2008

    I have the same problem with my 7.5 kw. I replaced 2 diodes and a capacitor, the flicking stopped but when the neutral and ground wires are connected the voltage drops 50%. Have you found any solutions?
    E-mail me at james2182@yahoo.com


  • Anonymous Feb 03, 2009

    I replaced the circuit board that regulates the voltage. It solved the problem. First check all connections and brushes. My generator was a 7.5 KW. There is a company called Pramac that stocks coleman parts.

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Coleman generators are junk and are not broken in at all from the factory. The most likely problem is that your brushes are not making a good contact or they are worn down completely. The cause is that the slip rings on a Coleman are very rough. As long as your engine is run at 60-62 hz steady there is nothing else that will cause you this problem period! Unless when the wires where stuffed in the generator end" from the factory" they where stretched to tight and have come loose and/or rubbed again the rotor. I have seem this problem very few times, but it is a Colem quality. Don't go replacing the diodes and the capacitor. If a diode goes out it goes out. If a cap goes out it goes out. If either one goes out you have no output, very simple.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

  • Bill Dickinson Oct 08, 2013

    how do i tell if is a diodes or a capactor on my colman 5K. system ran fine last fall, put in garage for storage and when I took it out for maintenance this fall, no pot

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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If you want to get more precise, figure out everything in terms of power (watts).

Basic electrical rule 1, 2 and 3:

voltage x current = power

or re-arranged:

current = power divided by voltage

or re-arranged:

voltage = power divided by current


For example, 12V X 2 amps = 24 watts.

or another example, 400 watts divided by 120 Volts = 3.33 amps

A 55W headlight that uses 12V would draw 55 /12 = 4.6 amps @ 12V

A 55 watt light bulb in a lamp at home would draw 55 / 120 = 0.46 amps @ 120V


As the previous post mentioned, inverters are not perfect when convertering 12V into 120V. If the converter consumes 1000W from the 12V battery, then a 90% effecient converter would generate 900W of 120V AC power best case. The other 100W is lost primarily as heat.

The other thing that gets tricky is that these ratings and the formula above are used for resistive loads, like light bulbs or hair dryers. Anything with a motor or transformer is considered an inductive load and can get much more tricky to calculate.

Consequently you need to give your self a safety margin when figuring out how big an inverter you need.

How does work in a practical sense?

Lets say you want an inverter for TV, DVD and Sat. Receiver. Look at the back of TV or in the manual. It should say how many watts it consumes. Lets say it is 400W. The DVD might be 100W and the Sat. receiver 50W - just as an example.

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Now you can see your 600 Watt inverter isn't big enough to do the job.

If we really need 550 watts of AC, add 10% to make up the effiency loss, then add a safety margin for inductive loads.

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Sounds more like an 800W inverter fits the job.

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from the formula above:

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