Question about Dryers
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
Below is a link to common solutions that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
It provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again.
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Temperature Switch, make sure a positive heat selection has been made. Then check these:
Gas valve coils
Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.
The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.
Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
Posted on Jul 04, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 06, 2011 | Dryers
May 14, 2010 | Whirlpool GEQ9858J Dryer
Feb 01, 2010 | Whirlpool WGD9500T / WGD9500TC / WGD9500TW...
Jan 02, 2010 | Whirlpool GGQ9800L Gas Dryer
Aug 25, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers
May 14, 2009 | Whirlpool ET8CHEXSQ Dryer
Jan 24, 2009 | Dryers
Jun 29, 2008 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer
Dec 10, 2016 | Dryers
833 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!