Depends you need a digital multi meter to check. make sure the plug is out of wall socket, set multi meter to diode check, ( the symbol on the dial will be an arrow head with a line across the point). put the probes on legs 1 &3 then 1& 2 then swap the red & black probes in to opposite hands and do the check again,if any of the readings are 000 then that is the suspect tranny. take it out and test again while its out of the circiut board,if still reading 000 then thats the problem and it needs replacing. shouldnt cost more than a fiver
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i assume the power comes on and there is no audio. more than likely the audio output ic is blown or it may just have bad connections. the ic is usually the largest component on the circuit board mounted to a heat sink. you can write down the number and try to get one online or at anelectronics wholesaler. also look to see if any capacitors are swollen or blown. if so try changing these first but if that doesnt work shut the unit off right away or they will blow again.
When the volume control is adjusted it sends a signal to a small black box called an IC. This adjust the levels and power going to the main amp of the unit. The IC can be found by tracing the wiring from the volume control back to a printed circuit board.
If the sound is also dead on that channel on a pair of headphones. Then you have probably lost the main power amp for that channel. To be certain. With you headphones on, slide or turn the balance control so you can only hear the faulty channel. With some music playing turn up the volume. If you can hear "faintly" music playing then the pre-amp is OK and the power amp has gone. The power amp will be located on a heat sink. It will consist of 4 transistors (2 for each channel) or one big device (or two) (an IC). If it is transistors you only need to replace the two for the right channel.
Fuses blow when there's an overload. This is often caused by faulty speaker wiring. But the main problem you have will be that the main power amp will have failed. You will find this on a big heat sink. It could be transistors, or a power amp IC, picture below of what that could look like.
seems the system is fine and what you see is display demo of the system.
while the system is on standby or even if it is on keep pressing the display button
until "no display" is displayed on the screen.
SP7615 is a surface mounted LED driver IC that has 8 pins. If this is the part you are looking for, it can be ordered from Mouser.com for $68.00 each. I suspect that this is not the part you need. Can you describe the problem you are trying to resolve?
your problem is your linear intergrated amplifier chip has blown, or has dry joints. causing you system to go in to protect mode which stops more damage being caused and fire not occurring. if you have no technical back ground in electronics, then i wouldnt attempt repair yourself. if you have take cover off and on the long metal heat sink there is a black like box with between ten and thirty legs going in to circiut board thats your problem, theres a code on the front of it with 2 or 3 letters then a number, thats your part number they range in price from between £7.00 to 50.00 pounds.. hope this helps