GE Model GSS22JEMB WW - Defrost heater Bad

doesn't seem to be a good model number.
ge refrigerator defrost problem YouTube

Bottom left of freezer is thermistor.


Late model PSS Service manual and more HERE

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unplug it and get your hair dryer remove the panel again and blow dry the entire thing untill all is melted be carefull not to over do ad not to put dryer in the freezer stand back where the water will not splash on the dryer after leave it off for 1 hour than turn back on and put setting on number 3 for 2 to 3 hours than adjust to your normal setting not higher than 5 or it will repeat problem.It is getting very well cool causing to over cool to fast.
also air spray out back side and bottom of refrigerator is always a big help
Good Luck

I would suggest fixing it . You only have 2 parts in the defrost system . A timer , and the defrost heater which comes with the bimetal , pt . # WR51X10031 .Most probable , is the defrost heater . You will need to remove the rear inside freezer panel , and defrost the coils with a hair dryer . After defrosting , 2 screws hold each ( 2 ) heater on , ant the defrost thermostat , just clips onto the top of the coils .

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

I am sure you can do this yourself, Jeff. The test procedure is as follows. Bypass the defrost thermostat (round thingy strapped to evaporater ) place the frig into defrost by manually turning the timer with a screwdriver clockwise untill you hear a loud click. You should be in defrost mode now. If the heater element comes on then you have a bad defrost thermostat. If they do not come on then the element is bad. You can check element for continuity with an ohm meter. The defrost timer rarely goes out but they occasionally do. Wait to see if the timer comes back out of defrost on its own. Takes about five to ten minutes .If it does not, then you can visually inspect timer. There is a sight window on the back of timer that should be spinning if motor is good. Hope this helps

In my GE side-by-side there is a defrost temp sensor located near the top of the evaporator coil. I think the control board uses that temp sensor to know when it should be done defrosting.

On the schematic of my fridge (link below), the defrost thermistor is part number 240 in the diagram (not part number 241, which is a different temp sensor located adjacent to the one you want)

http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=361233&ModelNum=GSS20IEMDWW&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=2&Selected=00113321i06&Position=2&mfg=GE&Type=&Mark=2

I don't know why the defrost element would fail immediately other than incorrect supply voltage or just a bad defrost element.

It's most likely a defrost issue. One or more of your defrost components have failed. Defrost components are defrost thermostat, defrost heater, and defrost timer or board depending on model

defrost system has failed. for a temporary repair, melt ice off with a hairdryer but dont heat up any stats mounted on the pipework.

check continuity thro the defrost heater and thermal fuse in series with heater with a multimeter.

if both of these are ok, points to a module fault

cintact ge some of these machines are under a ge factory recall for service preformed on them you need the serial number befor you call 800 386 1215