Thank you kindly for offered solutions. I'll see which one of those solutions will work, but at the moment, I'm having difficult time taking this dryer apart.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Re: How to take apart the LG Dryer
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance. I have never personally worked on an LG product before, as I retired before this brand was introduced to the market.
Here is another link that I found. It offers instant downloads for service manuals for only $5.00. An excellent deal, I must say. http://repair2000.com/books.html
If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue. Thank you, Dave E. (Illeagle) "Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
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If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check outthis electric no heat tip...
Hello there. The first thing that you should do is disconnect the vent from the back of the dryer and run a heat cycle. You've obviously have been observing the burner, so you'll need to do that while you run this cycle. Just make sure you dont set it on fluff or no heat settings. If the problem is solved you'll know that there's an obstruction someowhere in the vent to the outside or reduced airflow. Airflow is extremely important in gas dryers. Make sure you have a good burst of air at the exit point on the outside of the house when the dryer is operating. If your ducting from the dryer anywhere close to 10 feet or runs uphill, that could be a problem. Make sure also with a gas dryer (if you dont already), that you have the ridid ducting and not the vinyl easily kinked kind.
The first thing I'm going to do is post a link here of 4 models that I pulled up with the model number you gave. They all start with DLG5988. The endings on them differ. Take a look at your dryer and see which one of these are the match. It will help, with parts location; however the burner assembly is going to be pretty much the same on all. Here's the link; http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=DLG5988
Next you'll want to start another cycle that will require the dryer to engage the burner.
IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, you know that it's okay, you also know that the thermal fuse in the back of the dryer is okay. NEXT, you'll want to see if it turns OFF. If it didnt I'll cover that later. If the ignitor clicks off after a few seconds of glowing bright orange, You know that the flame switch mounted to the left of the burner tube is OKAY as well. At the moment the click of the flame switch is observed, the burner valve should release gas for burner ignition. If the ignitor turns off with no ignition, and you are positive you're getting gas supply to the dryer, you likely will have to replace the two coil valve solenoids on the top of the burner. The valve itself is extremely reliable and rarely needs replaced. The two safety coils may gradually fail over weeks, or even months giving longer dry times and only partial heating. As safety coils are failing, they'll work fine for only a short amount of time, and then after about 30 minutes of cycling on and off to maintain the drum's temperature, they will break down and cease to open the valve leaving you with cool or wet clothing at the end of the cycle.
IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT NEVER CLICKS OFF you likely have a bad flame switch (flame sensor). You will need to replace it.
The three main parts of the burner assembly are the valve coils, the ignitor, and the flame switch.
You are facing the same problem once again means that the dryer is not working, kindly call the executive and tell him strictly to make the dryer working. And there is no other way or call the same technician refund the money and go for exchange offer for a new one .
DLE2532W is an electric heat model. (a gas model would be a DLG......) To get a rear control LG dryer apart: Open door and remove two phillips head screws at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions. Use a putty knife to release the clips holding the top panel to the dryer front by pushing the clips in at the seam of the dryer top and front, a couple inches in from each side. Swing top back. Remove two phillips head screws at the top, allowing front panel to pull forward. Unplug drum light and door switch and drum sensor plugs, allowing front panel to be completely removed and set aside. Now, look at the burner area at the lower right. Behind the gas valve you will find a small (about dime sized) high limit thermostat on the left side of the burner cone. It has two wires attached and has a small pin in the center of it. (Only on gas models) Push the pin in.
Now, if that get's you ignition again, CORRECT VENTING ! Get rid of flexible vent material. (use only rigid aluminum vent pipe and elbows) Clean out vent pipes and outside vent hood. Outside vent hood should be the kind with a four inch flap for the opening, not a two inch flap. Tripping of the high limit thermo is almost always caused by inadequate air flow.
Dryer doesn't get hot. Replaced all the sensors and still it doesn't get hot. Doesn't get hot in any mode. All vents are clear. I'm thinking that maybe there may not gas getting ignited, but I know nothing about gas stuff and am not sure if thats the problem. Any ideas of what I should be looking at next?