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Replaced damaged RTD. (bent and open)
Prior to the failure, my wife used to have to light one of the top burners to get the oven to fire. All top burners light properly.
The glow plug lights up fine, all red hot. So I assumed the circuit through the valve is complete. Am I wrong on that? Is the valve compromised in some other way?
the real oven model # is FGF326ASF, not found in the drop down menu below.
Thank you. In the meantime I found the ignitor should be drawing at least 3.4 amps. Ours draws 2.4 amps, insufficient to throw the valve. Endeavouring to replace.
I used the afformentioned part# while posting the problem because this sight did not recognize FGF326ASF, the real part number, thought you should know.
Again thanks.Thank you. In the meantime I found the ignitor should be drawing at least 3.4 amps. Ours draws 2.4 amps, insufficient to throw the valve. Endeavouring to replace.
I used the afformentioned part# while posting the problem because this sight did not recognize FGF326ASF, the real part number, thought you should know.
I have the same problem, my wife cook a pie and next day when I tried to cook something it turn off and I wait about 30 minutes when I checked, the food was warm but when I checked the burner it was no gas only the igniter was on, where is the piece you are talking about?, thanks
I have the same problem, my wife cook a pie and next day when I tried to cook something it turn off and I wait about 30 minutes when I checked, the food was warm but when I checked the burner it was no gas only the igniter was on, where is the piece you are talking about?, thanks
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One of the Ignitor/orifice assy.,electrode is bad expecially the one your wife have to light.The circuitry is ok,but change that bad ignitor/orifice assy electrode. Part number is Item # 833121: check it out @ www.repairclinic.com
This is how to check the part using the site i gave you: type this, www.repairclinic.com in your browser address, clicl GO or search.
At the left side of the site window: type your mode # FGF326ASF. click search.
the brand shall appear as- Frigidaire
Appliance type appear as - Range/Stove/Oven
Part type: try to look for : Burner Cap/ Burner Assembly, click search.
its item #833121. it most likely be no 4 picture. click the pix to enlarge the picture. order part $46.80 precisely.This is how to check the part using the site i gave you: type this, www.repairclinic.com in your browser address, clicl GO or search.
At the left side of the site window: type your mode # FGF326ASF. click search.
the brand shall appear as- Frigidaire
Appliance type appear as - Range/Stove/Oven
Part type: try to look for : Burner Cap/ Burner Assembly, click search.
its item #833121. it most likely be no 4 picture. click the pix to enlarge the picture. order part $46.80 precisely.
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
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Even if the oven thermal overload sensor is functioning properly, it is less likely to be the cause of the issue with the oven and top burners not working. However, it is still worth checking to ensure that the sensor is not malfunctioning or damaged. The thermal overload sensor is a safety feature that can cause the oven to shut off if it overheats, so if it is faulty or damaged, it could potentially prevent the oven from heating up or cause it to shut off prematurely.
To test the thermal overload sensor, you can use a multimeter to check its resistance. The resistance should increase as the temperature of the oven rises. If the resistance remains the same or is outside the expected range, then the sensor may be faulty and should be replaced. If the sensor appears to be functioning correctly, then you should investigate other potential causes mentioned below,
If the oven and top burners are not working even after replacing the main control board, there could be several other possible causes. Here are a few things to check:
Check the power supply: Even though the voltage at each input feed wire is 120 volts, the power supply may not be providing enough current to operate the oven and burners. Check the wiring and connections to ensure they are secure and not damaged. You may also want to check the circuit breaker or fuse box to make sure there are no issues with the electrical supply.
Check the heating elements: The oven and top burners are powered by heating elements. If one or more of the heating elements are faulty, this could be causing the issue. Check the elements for any signs of damage or wear, and test them with a multimeter to ensure they are functioning properly.
Check the wiring harness: The wiring harness connects the various components of the oven to the control board. If the wiring harness is damaged or has a loose connection, this could be preventing the oven and burners from working. Check the wiring harness to ensure it is securely connected and not damaged.
Check the safety valve: The safety valve on the oven regulates the flow of gas to the burners. If the safety valve is faulty, it may not be allowing gas to flow to the burners, which could be preventing them from igniting. Check the safety valve to ensure it is functioning correctly.
If you are unable to identify the issue, it may be best to call a qualified technician to diagnose and repair the oven.
F3 or F4 Shorted or open oven temperature sensor (RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok.
Hi, the F4 error code means Open or shorted oven temperature sensor (RTD).. Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok.
You can raise the top lid of the stove to light the pilot lights for the top burners. The oven is controlled by a electric glowbar ignitor. Make sure the cord is plugged into a electrical outlet. If it is and the oven does not work the glowbar ignitor must be replaced.
RTD is resistence tempature detector. The oven is telling you that the tempature probe circuit is open. The temapture probe may have been damaged due to the self-cleaning cycle or it could just be the wiring harness is loose. You will need to remove the tempature probe and test it with a ohm meter. The average reading should be aroun 1200 ohms at room tempature. If it is testing open or the ohm reading is way off then you will need to replace the tempature probe. If it is testing good then it could be aproblem with the control board.
The F3 error code indicates a fault with the Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) being Open. The soultion is to replace oven temperature sensor (RTD). Also check the wiring harness to the sensor for damage.
Concerning the F3(Open or shorted oven temperature sensor (RTD)
Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control.
Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok.
Concerning the F1(Stuck touch pad)
Usually means that either the touch pad or the oven control (also called
clock or ERC) is defective and needs to be replaced. If this fault code
cannot be cancelled, replace the oven control (also called clock or ERC),
touch pad, or both.
Thank you. In the meantime I found the ignitor should be drawing at least 3.4 amps. Ours draws 2.4 amps, insufficient to throw the valve. Endeavouring to replace.
I used the afformentioned part# while posting the problem because this sight did not recognize FGF326ASF, the real part number, thought you should know.
Again thanks.
I have the same problem, my wife cook a pie and next day when I tried to cook something it turn off and I wait about 30 minutes when I checked, the food was warm but when I checked the burner it was no gas only the igniter was on, where is the piece you are talking about?, thanks
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