Whirlpool Dryer has stopped working. Power cord is

The recommended power cord is a 30 amp 3- or 4- wire cable. A 50 A cord could cause a problem by allowing a surge to the dryer motor and damage the dryer or start a fire. There are 30A to 50A adapters (see RV and boat supply vendors). The installation instructions for the LER5636EQ3 are available here: https://www.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Installation%20Instructions%20-%203397618.pdf . See page 5 of the PDF.

Note: the 50A outlet has a 50A circuit breaker protecting it. If you swap the outlet to a 30A outlet, you will also need to replace the breaker with a 30A one.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR DRYER?

For a detailed Dryer illustration, click below.

Gas Whirlpool Style Version 1
Gas Whirlpool Style Version 2
Gas Maytag Style
Gas GE Style
Electric Whirlpool Style Version 1
Electric Whirlpool Style Version 2
Electric Maytag Style
Electric GE Style
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.

Electric dryers aren't very complicated. Here are some common symptoms that you may experience with your dryer:

There's an error code on the digital display

It doesn't work at all
There's no heat
It won't tumble
Drying is too slow
It overheats
It seems to run forever
It's noisy
It won't start
The light doesn't work
It blows fuses or trips the circuit breaker
My clothes smell bad!
My clothes are marked or torn

THere are a few things that can cause this. 1 a partially tripped circuit breaker.
Turn the breakers off and then back on.
2 the power cord may have either a defective pin or the recepticle itself could have a problem. Check for any odd discoloration on the plug pins.
Then after plugging your dryer cord in check once again for signs of heating. If you still have no heat then these are what can cause it to no longer heat:
3. an open heating element
4. a bad thermostat
5. a damaged wire or terminal connector.

These are the most common discrepancies found when a dryer does not heat.

There's no heat If your dryer doesn't heat, check these: Power from the house Heating element Thermal fuse Wiring Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected. Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to

There's no heat If your dryer doesn't heat, check these: Power from the house Heating element Thermal fuse Wiring Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected. Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to Good luck

Regards:
VOTIT
Dont forget to rate:

your dryer may not be recieving adequate voltage to start.
make sure your dryer is plugged in.
also check the circuit breaker panel to make sure all circuit breakers are in the right position.
check fuse box for blown fuse.
try plugging in something else in the same outlet.
also refrain from using an extension cord.

1) Be sure your clothes dryer is plugged in and turned on. If necessary, check the receptacle it's plugged into for power, using a working lamp, appliance, or voltage tester. Be aware that most electric dryers don't plug into standard 120-





volt receptacles; they operate on 240 volts. 







Make sure the door is closed completely, the timer is advanced to the proper position, and the correct cycle is selected.

2) If the receptacle is dead, check the circuit breaker or fuse that serves that circuit.

3) Unplug the dryer and check the power cord and the terminal block. If necessary, replace the cord.

4) Open the door, and check the door switch. Press and release it; it should click each time. If it doesn't, it's probably broken.

If you're experienced at home repair, you can remove the switch, test it, and replace it if needed; otherwise, call an appliance repair service.

5) If the dryer still doesn't work, a thermal fuse or other electrical or electronic part may be faulty. The thermal fuse, found in the back cover panel, can stop working if the dryer overheats. Call an appliance service person if you suspect an electrical part may be malfunctioning.

Your dryer may not be receiving adequate voltage to start. Make sure your dryer is plugged in. Also, check the circuit breaker panel to make sure all the circuit breakers are in the correct positions. Or check to make sure no fuses in the fuse panel are blown. Try plugging something else into the same outlet. If it won't work either, then there is likely something wrong with the power outlet. Any of these could be the reason power is not getting to your dryer. Also, refrain from using an extension cord to plug your dryer in.

i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.