I need some advice on adding freon to a dehumnidifier. Which side should I add it to, the low side or the high side? How do I tell one side from the other? Can I use 134a like I put in my car's airconditioner?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: Can you add 134a freon to a Dehumidifier?
Why do you want to put gas into your dehumidifier????????. this only needs to be done if there has been a leak and in that case you need to cure the leak first. you should use a vac pump as well to clear the charging line of gas. ideally, you should degas the appliance first and charge with the correct amount of gas.. the type of gas you need should be on the rating plate and is not necessarily r134a. gas goes in on the low pressure side and for this you can use either the charging stub (piece of pipe which is blanked off) or the low pressure pipe which is the larger diameter pipe of the other two. any refrigeration needs the correct amount of the correct gas.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This is a cap tube system. Try replacing filter, they often become clogged due to the oil used in the system. Cap tube can be clogged as well. could simply be low freon level. Evacuate the system and weigh in R-134A, amount is listed on model sticker. Also remember that when you attach gauges to the high side you are removing up to 2 oz., or more from circulation. Use a gauge with a short hose, like 6", on the high side. Be sure to bleed your low side hose with 134a before attaching to prevent moisture entering system, that also turns the oil to acid and deteriates the filter and clogs cap tube.
**** boy. 72 psi on the low side?
It ain't an air conditioner. The low side should be never over 5 PSI. The whole system holds only arounf 4 ounces. What were ya thankin?
WOW you will be lucky if the reed valves ain't blown in the new compressor. Go ahead and evacuate the system. Pull that ****** down to as close to negative 30 as you can and then shut her down. Just crack open the freon a hair and let it SLOWL:Y build to no more than 5PSI on the low side.
Refrigerators don't need freon added to them unless there is a leak and until you find and repair the leak you have not fixed the problem.
A lot of people think when their refrigerator is not cooling that they need to add freon. This is not normally the case 99% of the time. You are a lot more likely to have a defrost problem or a fan problem if your refrigerator is not cooling.
If you actually do need freon, call a reputable professional. There are a lot of guys out there that will just add freon because you told them it needed it, charge the heck out of you and then leave. Be careful about telling some jack leg that you need freon.
Maximum efficiency is achieved when there is the greatest difference between high side and low side provided the low side stays under 30 psi or so. The low side pressures must stay low enough to cause the refrigerant to change states in the evaporator. If you see frost on the compressor suction line, there's too much refrigerant, and you'll overload the compressor. The correct approach, if you have the equipment and it sounds like you must have a gauge set but you need recovery to do this right, is to evacuate the sealed system, (a tight system will hold a vacuum overnight, but an hour is a good test if you suspect any leaks) and refill with the exact amount of refrigerant (by weight) as indicated on the ID tag.. Any system that will not perform when filled to that specification has either a bad valve in the compressor, or a restriction caused by contamination. Contamination is usually from moisture (humidity) introduced into the system by improper servicing, but is usually relieved if the system is under vacuum long enough to boil out the moisture. If the compressor is the culprit, it's usually game-over.