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Conventional dryers are usually accessed by removing the rear panel. I would think these would be the same. Unplug the dryer and remove wires from heating element. Test for continuity with an ohmmeter. If there is no reading, the heating element is bad. Disconnect wires from the hi temp thermostat and test with an ohmmeter and if no reading it is bad. Sears has these parts available.
Replace the Heating Element. The heating element is usually located behind a panel on the back. To replace you will need to remove the back cover of the dryer, then locate the heating element. The heating element is screwed into place and is easy to unscrew and replace. Be sure to have the dryer unplugged while doing this. Here is the part for it:
Remove the service panel bottom front and the element will be on the right hand side. The element yanks out of its housing. This video shows how to replace the thermister. The element is directly to the right of that.
Does the drum still turn. If so probably just needs a new heating element. VERY easy to replace. Usually instructions to replace on or in new element box or just google instructions.
New heating element would be my first move to repair dryer.
Also, if you use softeners or dryer sheets, Wash lint screen with dawn and soft scrub brush to remove oils and residue (even if it dont look like there is none there there is) to extend your heating element use.
For safety reasons all appliance repairs should be done by a qualified technician. however replacing the heating element is not a difficult repair. You can find instructions and illustration opening the links below:
that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in
The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.
Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.
CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.
PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.