When do you replace bike brake pads? I'm putting up some pictures of both my front and rear pads. I'm wondering if it's time to replace them. They seem pretty worn and the rear brakes won't lock up any more. The pad on the left is the rear one, the one one the right is the front. Also, should I replace the disk the same time as the pads?

Same as on any bike with the same style brakes. Google "replace rear brake cable".

You will need a special tool for the back brakes,Autozone will loan it to you for 60 bucks,you will get it back when you return,I used it.I replaced brake pads front and back and both back rotors.The driver side rear had metal on metal,all disc brakes,brake pads on that rear side were completely worn down to metal,the driver side was like new,kept wondering why,replaced both rear rotors,put back together,then then I noticed where brake line hose went into brake caliber was leaking,so that caused the side with new like brake pads not to be gripping disc putting all brake pressure of that one side,so the copper fitting their was bad,put new one on and leak stopped.

undo 2 nuts connecting brake caliper to bike (leave the hose connected) once loose and the pads removed, loosen the brake fluid holder lid, the cylinder needs to be pushed back into the caliper, a 'G' clamp is ideal for this.
put new brake pads in as the old ones came out, bolt back on bike checking 1 pad on each side of disk, pump brake a few times untill pressure can be felt on clutch lever, repeat other side. Important..only loosen one at a time replace pads then do other side.

It don't think you would need brakes so quickly unless you or the previous rider was super hard on the brakes. I had this happen to me once after replacing the front tire. When it got put back on the brakes were squeezed and needed to be opened a little bit. I was able to just push the pads open a bit manually but my bike wasn't a Harley so I am not sure if the process is different but that sounds like what it probably is. Good Luck.

Try putting the bike on the center stand and get the front wheel off the ground with a floor jack. Spin the front wheel by hand and press on the rear brake pedal. The front wheel should stop. Likewise with the bike on the center stand and the rear wheel off the ground you should be able to lock the rear wheel with the foot pedal. On many Goldwings the rear pedal also operates one front disc. This is for people that refuse to use there front brakes to stop or slow there bike (80% to 90% of your stopping power is the front brake). Try bleeding the entire system front and back, you may just have air in the system. If the rear brake still does not work you may have a bad delay valve in the system. If you need to take the bike in to a shop, try to find a mechanic that is familiar with the system so they do not replace parts unnecessarily. That way you minimize your shop time and maximize your riding time.

you should not need any special screws, a spanner or socket to remove the brake calliper. Then a large flat screwdriver, to prize open the gap between the old pads, as they are worn down and you will need to do this so the new ones fit in. The only one precaution to remember, is never suqeeze the front brake lever while you have the caliper off the bike, this could cause the caliper piston to fall right out. After you replace the pads, and put the calliper back on the bike, you will need to pump the brake lever a few times before the brakes feel right. you should not have to bleed the brakes after that job

Changing the rear pads is pretty simple. Just take the two caliper retaining bolts out and lift the caliper off the pads and the caliper bracket. You might have to wiggle the caliper just a bit to get it up and off the caliper bracket.

Replace the pads and the anti-rattle hardware in the caliper bracket. Pay particular attention to which way the anti-rattle hdware goes on. Make sure you put the pads in with the fiber side towards the brake disc.

Now, you'll have to press the piston back into the caliper. You can use either a large pair of slip joint pliers or a C-clamp. Cover the caliper with something to protect the paint. Once you get the piston pushed back into the caliper, carefully replace it on the caliper bracket without disturbing the pads. Put a drop of Loctite 242 blue on the threads of the bolts and torque them to 20 foot pounds.

Check the brake fluid level and slowly depress the rear brake pedal until you get a good firm feeling pedal. Make sure the brakes work properly before you ride the bike. Improper servicing of the brakes can cause severe injury or death. Make sure you do this right.

same way you do on a car. remove the wheel, take the caliper unit off and replace the pads.

1) Put the bike on a milk crate or a bike jack stand
2) Take off the front wheel, the axle comes off like a large bolt
3) Remove the caliper unit from the disc, probably allen wrenches will be needed or at least metric wrenches
4) The pads will come out with a little of force and removing the retaining springs. Take note of how the springs are attached to the pads and caliper unit. You will have to re-assemble the caliper and pads and springs
5) use a C-Clamp to push the piston back into the caliper unit. After you get the caliper unit off of the bike you'll see what I mean. Probably a 6" c-Clamp will work
6) Check the disc for wear and tear. You might have to replace the disc.
7) put new pads into the caliper and attach springs. Take your time, putting the pad springs back on may be tougher than you think.
8) reassemble the caliper and the disc.
9) Put the wheel back on and squeeze the brake. Remember you used a c-clamp to push the piston all the way back into the caliper unit. Squeezing the brake will force the piston out and push the pads against the disc.
10) Time to TEST DRIVE the bike. Go slow and check for wobble or uneven braking. If needed retighten the caliper unit, just don't over tighten the caliper and strip the threads.

Hope this helps....

Not much difference replacing the lines and fluids between disk and drum brakes. Huge difference when replaceing the pads. Never force the drum over the pads with a hammer etc. Make sure to take a picture of the assembly before taking it apart when not firmiliar with something. Adjust the brake tension through the site hole once the drum is over the pads.

When doing the disk brakes, make sure that you do not push in the caliper piston at it's edge. Use a C clamp placed dead center on the piston if required. Don't push it in any more than needed.

Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.

To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.

Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.

Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.

Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.

Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!