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My jenn air refrigerator has gone out for the 2nd time in a week. Various error messages have been displayed the most recent and most common being 'off' where the freezer and fridge temp reading would normally display. They replaced the control board last week and that helped til today when I got the say message back, any ideas?
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If the freezer is staying cold it sounds like a defrost system problem. A bad timer, heater or thermostat can cause frost to build up on the coils and block air flow to the refrig side. Check out ACMEHowTo.com for troubleshooting the defroster problem
sounds as if the control board has gone bad unless you have an extended warranty that you purchased extra this will probably not be covered, but check with jenn-aire to be sure. I dont think I would worry about a 3rd compressor being bad but I would unplug the unit to prevent any further damage to it. good luck peyton
We own a Jenn-Aire model W27400W oven. The display module has
gradually gone dim over a period of several months prior to the end of
the warranty, and the display is no longer visible. It is apparent
that several Jenn-Aire oven models use the same display. Does Anyone
else have the same problem, and If so, are they willing to join a
class-action suit against Jenn-Aire with us?
Steve Patterson
303-256-8494 [email protected]
Most common is a dirty condenser coil. If you have not cleaned it recently vacuum and brush the coil underneath and the back bottom compressor compartment. Blocked air flow will cause erratic temps in the refrigerator section.
Can you place the unit into Turbo Cool? once it reaches 34 degrees it will reset to 40.
This can happen if you've recently added a lot of food lately, such as for a party. The energy saving nature of the unit cannot cope with the influx of a lot of food food from the grocery store all at once.
If that doesn't do it, stick around and someone will be along to help you.
If your display has gone dimmer and dimmer or just gone out it is probably the display board. There are a few capacitors on the back of the board. There is one that is 68 Microfarad 35 Volts. It is common for this one to go bad. I replace it with a 68 Microfarad 50 Volt rated one and that usually solves the problem.
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