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Posted on Jul 03, 2008
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GE built in microwave is completely dead. We were using the timer when it went dead. The A/C outlet is good. There was a pop sound just before it went dead. The unit is about 6 years old. Is it worth fixing? if yes how do I make the fix?

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William Miller

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  • GE Master 9,179 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 04, 2008
William Miller
GE Master
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Joined: Sep 15, 2006
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A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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Sounds like the bulb shorted, which is very common, and the first time it blew the fuse.

It sounds like when you put the new fuse in and tried it again, the bulb was still shorted, and this time it damaged the board.

We see (and repair) thisa lot. The problem is on the control panel, whichwe regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about aweek.

Atour Web site, we have a videoavailable showing how to remove a typicalover the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure oftenoccurs when a bulb goes out and the filamentshorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without firstunplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such afailure on the controller.

This can often alsoaffect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can beinoperable or stuck on too.

Details of our serviceand critical safety information and disassembly information is at oursite, and our link is at ourlisting hereon FixYa.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of yourfull model number) for more information & help.

We'rehappy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate yourthoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

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