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My goodman central a/c unit will not start when the thermostat calls for cooling. i checked the system out with my voltage tester and current is ok. i removed the side cover and engaged the magnetic contactor and all seems to be working ok,the fan came on and the comprssor kicked in. there is no cooling air coming into the vents into the house.

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  • tomnevins Jul 09, 2008

    I changed the transformer and the capacitor on this outdoor central a/c unit. I then turned the thermostat in the house to the on position and the fan did not come on. I then switched the thermostat to the heating position and that worked ok. I then went back to the outdoor a/c and pressed the magnetic contactor with a screwdriver and the fan came on and the compressor lines got cold, but no cold air coming into the vent duct in the house.

  • tomnevins Jul 22, 2008

    I did all the recommendations that that you requested. I turned off the air handler at the dissconnect switch. I disconnected the 24 volt wires from the thermostat. I connected the R&G wires together, and then restored power to the air handler. The fan on the outside central a/c did not come on. I engaged the magnetic contactor manually outside on the unit and the fan came on.

  • tomnevins Aug 01, 2008

    I connected the r&g wires together from the thermostat and turned off the air handler. I then turned the air handler breaker back on and the indoor fan did not come on. I then tried the r&y thermostat wires together and the outside condenser fan did not come on either. I switched my upstairs thermostat with the one downstairs and the same problem occured.

  • tomnevins Aug 11, 2008

    I guess you are saying that the indoor fan relay 24 volt fuse or circuit board are located in the attic where the indoor blower is housed in the unit.

  • Anonymous Apr 21, 2009

    i have the same problem but on my unit neither the inside nor the outside work i tried to connect the t-stat wires directly and nothing happen and if i push the contactor in manually on the outside unit it will start but it doesn't blow to the inside.i looked for the fuses but it doesn't have any anywhere.please let me know what to do next

  • Don Berry May 11, 2010

    So when you turn the thermostat to cool and the fan to auto, the indoor fan runs but the outdoor condenser does not come on at all?



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My gut tells me that the indoor fan relay,24volt fuse or circuit board have gone bad, but first lets eliminate the thermostat as a problem.
1) Turn off the air handler at the disconnect switch to shut off 24v.
2) Disconnect the 24v wires from the thermostat.
3) Only connect the "R" and the "G" wires together. (Usually red and green)
4) Restore power to the air handler.

Does the fan come on? If it does than the thermostat is bad. If it does not come on then we will look closer at the other componants. Give it a shot!

Posted on Jul 09, 2008

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  • Don Berry Jul 22, 2008

    The test I gave you was to determine whether or not the indoor fan was operational, not the outdoor condenser fan. As I asked before, when you attach the R&G together does the indoor fan come on? Please answer this for us. If this does work then run the same exact test again. Except this time connect the R & Y wires together to get the outdoor unit to run. If the first and second tests are successful then your thermostat is bad.

  • Don Berry Jul 22, 2008

    The test that I gave you was to test the indoor fan, not the outdoor condenser. By connecting the R&G together at the thermostat the indoor fan should come on. Did it?

    If it did then please try the test again. Only this time connect the R&Y terminals together. This test should only operate the outdoor condenser unit. If both tests are successful, I believe that you have a bad thermostat.

  • Don Berry Aug 02, 2008

    Sounds like a bad circuit board then. Basically the circuit board is not sending the 24 volts up to the thermostat. There may be a short in the 24 volt system or simply a bad board. I would change the board and install a 2 amp fusable link on the "R" wire just in case there is still a short. I believe it is most likely a bad board.

  • Don Berry Aug 11, 2008

    Correct. The 24v fuse, circuit board, and board relay should all be located wherever the indoor air handler is located. Usually they are in the same compartment as the blower itself. However, that is not always the case.

    The board usually has a 2 or 3 amp fuses on board. However the new board will not come with one. So keep your old one (if it is still good) or buy another one. It would not hurt anything to place an additional fuseable link in the 24 volt line (usually at the R terminal on the circuit board.


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Check the transformer. Turn t.stat to on. If the fan doesn't engage change transformer. Also discharge your capacitor and test. If micro-farads are low it is a good indicator that the capacitor is either bad or going bad. Change and crank her up...

Posted on Jul 03, 2008


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3 Answers

My Goodman heat pump doesn't blow air through the vents into the house, but the fan comes on when the thermostat is turn on for the air conditioning

Check first that
  • the air conditioning equipment is turned on,
  • the thermostat is calling for cooling, and that
  • the blower unit or air handler is actually blowing air through the ductwork.
Here are the details of what to check in what order if your air condtioner or heat pump doesn't start at all when you set the room thermostat to call for cooling:
  1. Check the Room Thermostat Temperature Setting: Set the thermostat to at least 5 degrees below room temperature. Our elderly mom has no patience with switches and controls. She regularly calls her air conditioning service company with a service request, sometimes late at night, because she has simply failed to set the temperature on the thermostat lower than the room temperature. Don't drive your A/C like our mother.
  2. Check that the Room Thermostat is set to "Cool" not "Off" or "Heat". If the thermostat is not set to "cool" it is simply turning off your A/C. If the thermostat display is blank then it's not receiving power (for modern digital thermostats). Check that electrical power is on at the air handler and to the the low-voltage transformer that supplies power to the thermostat.

    If the thermostat has power, check that when you set the thermostat temperature down at least 5 degrees below room temperature the thermostat calls for cooling. If it doesn't then check for broken or shorted thermostat wires anywhere between the wall thermostat and the control board at the air handler.

    You can easily eliminate possible thermostat problems as a cause of failure of the air conditioner to start by simply eliminating the thermostat from the picture: disconnect the thermostat wires at the blower unit's control board and instead connect the two thermostat terminals directly together with a jumper wire. If the system starts then the problem is in the thermostat itself or in its wiring.

    If the thermostat is working but the compressor condenser unit won't start, you could skip ahead
    to COMPRESSOR / CONDENSER DIAGNOSTICS but I wish you'd double check the remaining steps in this article first because there are some sneaky snafus listed below that might still be the problem.

  3. Check that electricity is on for the equipment. Check all of the electrical switches and controls that can turn electrical power off at the indoor air handler or at the outdoor compressor/condenser unit. There are more of these switches than you might guess. Here's a list of what to check:

    Electrical power switches and service switches outside by the compressor, inside at the air handler, and fuses or circuit breakers in the electrical panel. Don't forget to check that the access covers to the equipment are properly closed and latched. Otherwise a
    BLOWER DOOR SAFETY SWITCH could be keeping the equipment from running.

    There are several other safety switches and controls, both manual and automatic that can leave an air conditioner or heat pump turned "off" such as a blower compartment door interlock safety switch, an electric motor overload or overheat switches, and a condensate tray spillage detector switch.

    Some hard-to-find electrical switches on an air conditioner or heat pump could be keeping your air conditioner from starting, such as
    a FLOAT SWITCH on Condensate Tray that could
    causing CONDENSATE PAN SWITCH LOCKOUT - condensate spilling into an overflow pan that uses a sensor switch can be enough to shut down your air conditioner.
    a blower MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH could be keeping a fan motor from starting.

    A bad or failed starter capacitor could also be leaving your system shut down, failing to start a blower, fan, or compressor motor.

    Watch out: See A/C - HEAT PUMP CONTROLS & SWITCHES to be sure you have found and checked everymanual or automatic electrical switch on the system.
  4. Check the electrical supply voltage. Even if electricity is on, if the supply voltage has fallen too far below the operating voltage range of your air conditioner it's likely that the system will not operate, particlarly, you may note that the compressor motor won't start.

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10 year old Goodman central AC won't come on after mini power outage. Breakers and wall thermostat OK.

Check the start capacitor for proper value and replace if necessary.
Ditto for thermostat. There are also some fuses in the air handler that might need replacement.

You may have had a power surge that had a bad effect on electronics of unit. Make sure that unit is receiving power for one thing. U might try to reset the electronics by completely shutting off all the breakers to compressor and air handler and waiting a few minutes and then reconnecting.

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1 Answer

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Based on normal operation it is impossible to determine whats wrong with the information given. There are perhaps 5 voltage measurements in the system that you could be referring to.

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