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Re: Will not get very cold.
I have read many complaint that are specific to this issue. It may just be a characteristic of this unit. If it were me. I would read the directions carefully to make sure that I had done everything correctly. If it still was not satisfactory, I would take it back to the seller and replace it for a new or different one.
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On the remote part that goes inside the fan, it has five wire on it. One
Red wire marked L goes to black switch wire from switch or Hot wire.
Other Red wire goes to Net. wire from switch.or feed.Then you have A
black, a blue & a white. They connect to wires from the fan. When
finished connect turn light switch on, leave on & used remote
control. Top left button controls the fan on/off. bottom left button
controls light on/off.dimmer. There you go, all the know how to connect
remote & fan/light up. Good Lucky.
P.S. You will need to buy a 9v battery for the remote, it doesn't come with it
Without knowing the model, I would first check the fan motor for seizing, then if not seized, I would replace the fan capacitor. (Available at most appliance parts stores or HVAC parts stores). If this is a motel type PTAC unit (through the wall) I would be looking at the control panel as the third item to check, as these fail often. The fan capacitor is a small cylinder with usually 2 wires coming to it and at least one of them come from the fan and has its values stamped on the side. Hope this helps.
Which fan doesnt spin the inside fan or outside fan? If its the outside fan try replacing the dual capacitor for the fan and the compressor. First take the fan blade and see if it spins freely if you spin it and it stops immedietly the fan bearings are bad. If it spins freely replace dual capacitor. If trhis helps please rate me and do a testimonial.
Most likely a broken fan capacitor.
When you follow the wires from the fan you will find it. Try to replace it. (electronical store)
I'm an airco service engineer, in 95% of the cases this is the cause.
I had this exact problem with my 4 yr old Samsung RB1855SL refrigerator. BTW, the temperature display doesn’t display higher than 9C, even when its warmer inside. The fan wasn’t turning on to circulate the cold air, although the cooling coils were still cooling. There was no excess ice build-up. The freezer was working fine.
I thought perhaps the fan was toast or the temperature sensor. Then I noticed the interior fridge light was not turning off when closing the door (but the freezer light was). BINGO—thig light switch was the problem. A small piece on the inside of the fridge side of the switch was broken. When the door was closed, the broken switch didn’t let the fridge know that the door was in fact closed, causing the door alarm to keep beeping. This must shut the fan down in order to save energy when regularly opening the door.
DIY fix: I removed the switch (until I could get a replacement) which is located to the left of the lower door hinge (right hand side). Gently, with a flat nose screw driver, I pried it out.
The light no longer turned on when opening either door but that was a small price to pay compared to the incessant beeping and rotten food. The part can’t be very expensive and I can replace it myself. The local appliance repair shop will order it for me.
No expensive “internal brain” needed to be replaced or an expensive repairman needed to be called. Good luck!
There is a design problem with this model. The fridge section is icing over due to a design defect and the noise you can hear is due to the fan on the motor driving against the ice. Eventually the motor will be stopped from running and the fuse will blow in your plug. Contact Samsung and they should replace the defective parts with a fix.