I need to know how to get at the control gas valve to replace it....The ignitor is not lighting but I do have 120v on one of the 2 wires so I am thinking power is coming down from the board and I already tried a new ignitor(no glow), so it must be the valve....just can't seem to find it inside the oven cavity anywhere.....pulling the oven out would be be my last option because of the way the gas supply is plumbed( very creative plumber only using a 10-12 inch flex tube to work with).....Is it possible to change the valve without pulling the oven????
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Re: Replacing control valve...
Hi, Be careful many ranges break the neutral... the ignitor always has power...I got almost electrocuted finding that out... The ignitor is not working right and is going bad.... have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY.... Check out this tip about your problem...
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you have 2 posibilities the first one is very unprobable and the second will fix the oven
1) the new gas valve is defective and while the proper amprage is being supplied to it,it simply wont open
2) even though the bake ignitor is indeed coming on it isn't drawing the proper amp draw (3.2-3.6 amps) to open the gas valve ,the very fact the ignitor comes on totally eminates that the control isn't providing power to it for the bake ignitor to heat
i have been a appliance repair technician for over 30 years and am 100% confident that by replacing the bake ignitor the oven will work fine
There are 2 high likelihoods as to what your problem may be. When you turn your oven on, does the ignitor begin to glow within 15 to 30 seconds? If it doesn't, there is no power going to the ignitor and the control mechanism is going to need to be replaced. If you have a manual dial thermostat control, you can order this on-line at parstdirect.com. If you control is electronic, you will be required to have an appliance technician come out in order to send the old controller in to be rebuilt.
If your ignitor is glowing when you turn on your oven, but it has a very dull orange glow, you have a bad ignitor and it needs to be replaced. This is the most common problem with older gas ovens. The ignitors just burn out after time and do not draw the amperage needed to open the safety valve.
Replacing the ignitor is a fairly easy procedure. Replacing a dial thermostat control can be a little rough due to rerouting the thermocoupler back through the oven body. Unfortunately, the electronic style oven controls can only be sent in for rebuilding and the company that you use will need to be able to handle "Retforrepr Rebuilds".
Remove the bottom tray in oven compartment...... usually 2 screws at the rear... Turn it on to bake and see if ignitor glows if not test ignitor for 120v if you have 120v replace the ignitor. If it glows and still does not light burner after a few seconds the ignitor is weak replace it. (The gas safety valve has to receive a certain amount of power that must flow through the ignitor for the burner to ignite a weak ignitor will not allow enough power to flow through it). If you are not getting 120v trace the circuit.
If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less
than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. Faulty gas valve is uncommon, but still a
small possibility. Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265; rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108. Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.
PS For your model number the original part number was WB13K4 or WB13K0004, which is a round ignitor, though on the breakdown a rectangular one is shown, so check carefully.
You are probably right though often the ignitor will glow, but just not hot enough for the valve to open. I would definitely try replacing the ignitor first, it is much cheaper than the gas valve and those valves rarely go bad. It is possible that the thermostat is not sending 120V to the valve, and thus the ignitor but less likely.
The ignitor draws amperage thru gas valve which opens the bimetal valve to release the gas.Round ignitor 2.75 amps. Rect. 3.5 amps.Bottom line if burner dont fire within 60 seconds of turning orange you have a weak/bad ignitor.Hope this helps.Please rate my response :)
two things either hte clock(control ) assy not sending powerdown to the igiotr, or hte valve that the ignitor is connected to onst nay good, unplugh the unit andwitha meter try testing the 2 wire connections on the top of the safety valve( i wire goes to the ignitor nad the other is a neutral wire htt hooks downt to under the valve for the broiler, you should show continuity across those to leads, if not your valve is no good and will need replacing
Check the voltage on the 2 wires going to the oven gas valve. If you get 120v when the ignitor is on with no gas coming out, you have a bad gas valve. If you get voltage, but it is not much, it is the ignitor. The ignitors don't burn out completely on the ovens, they just get a little dim and no longer ignite the gas and eventually will not turn on the gas valve