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I have an SL-1950 turntable that has sat around for a while. When I set it up , the cueing support that rides under the arm will not lower when I start the player. How do I get it to lower? It did work ok the last time I used it but it might have gotten jiggled during a move. Everything else works fine.

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SOURCE: Cueing Problems on Technics SL-1300MK2

Usually the damping fluid is to let the tone arm lower slowly, lifting is usually a mechanical link. Read THIS.

Hope that helps...

Geno

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

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I have an older QL-45 turntable that needs tone arm adjustment- I don`t know how to set the weight so it doesn`t lower down to album so hard or heavily


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This should work with some modifications for your specific controls...

Make a note of the tracking force setting.


Make sure the turntable is level.


Unplug the power to the turntable.

Using the tonearm elevation control, raise the tonearm.

Manually move the tonearm in toward the platter.

Manually rotate the platter ClockWise a few turns to disengage any cueing mechanisms.

Set the Stylus Pressure/Tracking setting to 0.

Disengage the tonearm elevation control. The tonearm will either float or drop. This is why we have no power, just in case it hits the platter.

Adjust the counterweight until the tonearm floats exactly horizontal. Use the flat portion of the tonarm rest as a gauge.

Return the tonearm to its rest.

Dial in the prescribed tracking force on the Stylus Pressure/Tracking control. Play records.

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45 and 33 sound slow


Here's a procedure for setting the tonearm...

Look up the recommended tracking force for your cartridge/stylus.

Unplug the power to the turntable and place it on a perfectly level surface.

Set the Tracking Force and AntiSkating to 0.
Using the tonearm elevation control, raise the tonearm.
Manually move the tonearm in toward the platter.
Manually rotate the platter Clockwise a few turns to disengage any cueing mechanisms.
Disengage the tonearm elevation control. The tonearm will either float or drop. This is why we have no power, just in case it hits the platter.
Adjust the counterweight until the tonearm floats exactly horizontal. Use the flat portion of the tonarm rest as a gauge.
Return the tonearm to its rest.
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Forget solution #1

Here's what you do:

Your Garrard Type A is most likely an idler-drive deck (With a rubber wheel driving the turntable).

- Under the rubber mat there's a "C" shaped clamp to be found around the spindle. Remove that and keep safe. Now remove the platter and behold the 'guts' of the monster. On the left you should see a thick rubber wheel with a metal core inside, directly under that wheel you'll find a 3 step pulley protruding from under the frame.

Plug in the AC and turn on. Carefully look at the pulley. It should spin fast. If not, immediately unplug the power otherwise you'll burn out the motor. If the pulley spins too slow, the specially inserted factory grease/oil may have "set" or dried out during the silent years..

The same goes for the grease/ oil which is inserted in the spindle-bus. We'll get there later.

- Make sure the AC is OFF! High Voltage Inside!

- Lift the frame from its casing/ plinth and make sure it's completely supported when upside down, so you don't damage the arm!

- Locate the BIG motor! :-)

- The lower bearing screws may be 'glued' on with red lacquer. (Shellac) (This was done to prevent repairs by users (Warranty Expiration)
- Unscrew those and lift off the bearing. (a light tap with a small mallet may break the lacquer and make it easier to unscrew. DON'T TRY to unscrew forcefully as the screws may get damaged! They're made of brass I thought. )
- Clean it out with a tissue or a non-pilling piece of cloth. The Top bearing can be found under the motor-pulley which is fastened with 3 small screws. (Note! This bearing doesn't need greasing 'cause it's only there for support!)

Once cleaned out insert the tiniest little amount of Singer-Oil (Sowing Machine Oil) into the LOWER bearing. and put it back over the motor shaft. Screw the bearing back on. Make sure the screws are not too tight as, once again you may damage the heads. There! You just re-greased your turntable motor!

Next: If the speed selector lever is hard to move. Apply a small dab of vaseline onto the frame right next to the lever. Gently move it to and fro a few times and that's that.

- Spindle Bus:

This is somewhat more risky because this is practically what makes the turntable! The spindle was inserted in the factory by pressure, oil first, spindle second, forcing all the air out, leaving a film of oil around the spindle-shaft..

- Locate the cast-iron spindle-bus. Almost on top there you'll see a screw somewhere (again sealed with the red shellac)

- Gently try to loosen it. AGAIN: Do NOT use excessive force!
After unscrewing keep it safe.

- Turn the upside down frame over again to its normal position.

- Gently try to lift the spindle out of its bus.
DON'T YANK IT as this piece of stainless steel was crafted with extremely high precision! Then again, the vacuum won't let ya, heheh.

- Degrease with a non-pilling cloth or tissue drenched in thinner/ pure alcohol. Use a pencil and non-pilling cloth to clean out and degrease the spindle bus. Never use tissues as these may tear leaving residue in the spindle bus which decreases performance!

- Now poor some Singer-Oil onto the spindle and a small drop in the spindle-bus. Slowly rotate it between your fingers so the oil can distribute itself all over the spindle.

-Put the spindle back in its bus and let it sink in under its own weight (Get some coffee. Watch the Superbowl, Take a vacation, cause this may take a while!) DO NOT force it in as you may damage either the bus or the spindle!

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- Join turntable back together with spindle and give it a soft spin. (Oil warms up inside spindle bus)

Plug in the AC...

Happy spinning at the right speed! :o)


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I balanced my tonearms correctly. i think .. but the stylus jumps off the record and when i back spin (cue) the needle skates drasticly. can you walk me through the balancing proceedure and tell me how to...


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Usually the damping fluid is to let the tone arm lower slowly, lifting is usually a mechanical link. Read THIS.

Hope that helps...

Geno

Apr 01, 2008 | Audio Players & Recorders

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