My fan motor on a carrier 38ycc024310 has been changed two times should i replace the heat pump or is there an electrical problem

Sounds like you wired it wrong.

What is the model number of the heat pump? What is the voltage that you are dealing with?

Carriers usually have a 1/4 HP condenser fan motor.

Make sure the capacitor is connected to the start lead, not the run lead(s). Also some fans come with some wires you can switch to reverse the direction. If your motor has them there will be 4 and the label on the motor will tell you how to connect them. Let me know if you need more assistance or if this helps.

Hi, and the outdoor condenser fan should not be on at all in the heat mode unless this is a heat-pump!! So, I can see that this is a 3-ton Carrier split system and I haven't pulled up any information on it, only if I need to. But if the indoor unit runs on natural gas/propane, this would not be a heat-pump and the outdoor fan would run only in the cooling cycle. So, if it is not gas fired it is a heat-pump, and yes the outdoor unit should be up and running all year around. On a heat-pump you will have what is called a reversing valve in the refrigerant system that directs the flow of freon in the right direction for the season you are in. Most all heat-pumps will have a heat strip package installed in unit for emergency and aux. heat if compressor lets say fails. You're thermostat will have on it a selector switch, you will see on it these labels, Aux., emergency heat, auto/on/off/heat/cool. You will know from what I have just went through with you what you have. Forgive me for such a long explanation as I like my customers to understand more about there units in question. I could have just said yes or no and thanks? Doesn't work like that for me. I hope this has helped you out. One thing, If you determine this is a heat-pump and the fan is not on when in heat, you may have lost this condenser fan motor? You say both run caps. were replaced, and normally when you loose a run cap for a motor they will open internally, leak, buldge ect. So if this is taking place, if you can yourself take a look at the run cap. Also, make sure you have 220 volts to condensing unit. If not, check breaker probably a 30 amp double pole to see if it has tripped. You will have a disconnect box at the unit and inside there will also be 2 fuses. If you see only a pull out square connect, the fuses are still there but in behind the cover. If you have power and can hear the compressor come on but fan does not, I am positive you will have A faulty run cap, or faulty motor. Kill power to unit and try and slide a metal coat hanger down to prop or blade to see if it spins freely. If it is hard to turn bearings are froze up. If the capacitor seems to look ok, and the motor does spin free, It still may have open windings. Do these checks I have asked of you on power to the outdoor unit. If all is good, Stand in front of the unit and have someone turn the stat on for what season you are in. Lower or raise temp a ways above or below room temp. You should her the contactor close and compressor will start along with the condenser motor.If compressor starts and motor does not, then I would say it has failed and or cap again. When a motor is replaced, the run cap must always be replaced to!! Please get back to me and keep me posted. I will wait to hear what has happened. Good Luck.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

The outside fan may run if the unit is in defrost mode this is normal for most heat pumps it is there way of trying to keep the outside unit from staying iced over so the next time the unit runs it will have air flow through the coil and the ice will not be there to prevent air flow.

check fan rotation

Yes it could be the pop off pressure relief on the compressor.
I assume it is the outdoor fan your referring to not running.

If this is a heat pump and it is in defrost (only in the heating mode should your outdoor fan be off and then for only a max of 12 to 15 minutes).
If it is just AC ir is Heat pump in cool mode, the out door fan should run while the compressor and indoor fan are on. Until the thermostat is satisfied on room temp.

This high pitched squealing is indicative of a bad fan motor or capacitor for the out door fan motor. Kill power and test blades to see if turns free. Check the run capacitor inside control panel. It is usually silver or aluminum colored (some are painted gray). The top should be flat with rolled edges and the sides should either be round or oval shaped with no swelling or oil leaking from inside it. If this all looks normal take it to where your going to get a motor any way and ask them to check it or sell you a replacement at the same time. These can go out usually from high voltage (lighting...) or from over heating (bad fan motor, dirty out door coil...).

Hope this helps you if not post back I'll respond as soon as I can. And please rate me as high as you can. Thank you for using Fix ya and good luck.

Your compressor sounds like isn't working? And the problem is if we are lucky you just lost the capacitor. turn off the breaker to the ac/heat pump unit. Open the electrical panel on condenser locate the capacitor if it is swelled up like puffed up can then for sure it is bad. It has two sides to the capacitor one for the fan and one for the compressor. If you have a meter check it in ohms. If you don't have a meter take the capacitor to a heating and air conditioning parts house and get a new one just like the one you have very important to get right size. let me know how it turns out. ken