Yes you will want the out door sensor. The reason why is it is going to read the average temp outside and will adjust what you hum is producing due to the temp outside, that is so you dont cause condensation on your window. You can run it in manuel or auto but i would strongly reccomend to run it in auto.
Hire a certified heating specilist and pay for the installation. When you do, you are not only paying for the installation but you are paying for the many years of knowledge that goes into his or her carrer,
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Remove and clean the water level sensor and see if this resolves your error. If cleaning doesn't do it, check the connector for buildup. If neither of the above works, you'll need to order a new sensor - I've gone through two in four years as the heat appears to crack the plastic housing, allowing water to wick up between the plastic and the contact, ultimately shorting it.
It sounds to me as though they have the market cornered on this unit. If it says the element is bad and they say they don't sell them, your only recourse is to but a new one. I think I would look into another brand, even though Honeywell are top of the line. It would seem to me if it says to replace it that it should be able to be replaced? I would call Honeywell myself and find out if I were you. Shastalaker7
The outdoor thermostat senses the the temp of the outside air, and adjust the boiler water temp according to what it knows is best. The reason that the boiler is running longer is the old boiler used to be constantly sending 180ish degree water to the baseboard, now that water may only be 140ish degrees. The idea behind this is to reduce off cycle heat loss, as the greater the temp difference between the air temp and water temp, the quicker you loss heat. The theory in boiler run time is this, the less times it starts and stops, and the long run times will give you the best efficiency. Hope this answers you questions.
the soliniod requires 24v to open so if you dont have the power then its not wire properly. Are you using a current sensing relay to allow the humidifier to only come on whe the fan is operatin? if you do have 24v on solinoid and its not opening then you got a bad solinoid. sometimes the humidistat will be a universal, for a power humidifier . A bypass requires external power and the humidistat will need to be switched to BYPASS to regonize this
I had the same problem. I replaced the solenoid which resulted with the same problem. I then blocked the drain using a ball valve, that resulted in the humidifier overflowing. I do have a fault code (3 blinks) indicating failure to fill tank. However, if this were true, blocking the drain would have solved this problem. I have replaced the unit with a new one, and it is now working perfectly. If you have covered all these bases then I suggest replacing your unit. Hopefully it's under warranty. Cheers, Rich
I suppose you are looking at the do-it-yourself model. Depending on the wire that is run up to you Regular Thermostat from your furnace. You may have to run a seperate line for the Humidistat. A digital thermostat that does Humidity and Temperature is recommended. Or you could just place a Humidistat near the furnace room. A wiring diagram will come with the Humidifier discribing the different ways to wire it.