Current setting too hot - Heating & Cooling

It is generally not recommended to set your water heater to the highest setting. Water heaters typically have a maximum temperature setting, usually between 120°F and 140°F, and setting the temperature higher than this can be dangerous.
Water that is too hot can cause scalding and skin burns, and can also damage pipes and fixtures. Additionally, high temperatures can cause increased wear and tear on the water heater, reducing its lifespan and potentially leading to costly repairs.
If you're running out of hot water, there are a few other things you can try before turning up the temperature. For example, you could insulate the hot water pipes to reduce heat loss, or upgrade to a larger water heater if your current one is too small for your needs. If you do decide to increase the temperature, be sure to do so gradually and monitor the water temperature to ensure it doesn't get too hot.

batteries will get hot when working as there is current flow across the plates . For batteries to get noticeable hot then there is a current draw that exceeds the capacity of the battery . This indicates a problem electric motor in the system (Worn bushes/bearings -armature poling out --shorting windings or armature) it may also indicate shorting between batteries from a battery that has collapsing cells . Have each battery inderpendently load tested

If you are using a remote then you would set the machine in standard for controlling output and also to AC output, HF tig, contactor and control in remote position. I don't know if this helps or not but I pulled it from an owners manual.

1/16" (.062) - pre-flow .1 sec., hot start 20, amperage 70, Hz 100, balance 20%, post-flow 6.0 sec.

For pulse settings - set pulse width 60%, peak current 100, background current 30, Hz 1.0

1/8" (.125) - pre-flow .1 sec., hot start 20, amperage 150, Hz 80, balance 20%, post-flow 6.0 sec.

For pulse settings - set pulse width 60%, peak current 150, background current 50, Hz 1.0

3/16"-1/4" - pre-flow .1 sec., hot start 20, amperage 185, Hz 60, balance 20%, post-flow 8.0 sec.
For pulse settings - set pulse width 60%, peak current 185, Background current 125, Hz 1.0

I doubt it . The resistor pad or block of resistors is the actual speed setting for the fan (1--2--3) Resistor blocks are prone to burn out because they get very hot during operation. Relays are used to allow a small amount of current to go through switches and wires . This small current then energises a coil in the relay that closes a set of points that allows larger wires to work to carry the heavier current

OK there is a preset on the circuit board, that you have to adjust first you has to open the positive line put the tester on current and connect the leads in series, set the idle current 25-50 ma. Best of luck

the oven sensor could be bad,its a small rod inside the oven cavity near the top,or you could have a bake element with a "hot-spot" in it that can no longer pass enough current to properly heat the oven to the correct temperature setting(most elements with a hot spot will show a discolored area on the element where its been overly hot)this is the "hot-spot" it will soon break apart there

Legrand 037 30 is vertical analog timer similar to hagar EH 010
Open following link for illustration how to set and wire timer.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/EH-010-2-2-500.jpg

Hours of the day appear on timer dial as you rotate dial around.
Hagar timer you push segments left for ON times, and right for OFF times.
To set current time, manually rotate 24-hour timer dial until current time lines up with mark.

You can also move some of the segments to the right and leave rest of segments to the left.
Then manually rotate timer dial several rotations with thumb while listening to the hot water system turn on-and-off, or use tester to test power at terminals 3 and 4 or use tester at hot water system.
If timer has override lever, then move lever to each position and repeat test by rotating dial with each switch setting.

Compare the voltage and current ratings on the TV (either on the label or next to the power jack) with those on the AC adapter/charger. The voltage on the charger MUST be the same as that on the TV. The charger's current rating should be the same or more. If the current rating is too low, the set may run, but it won't charge the battery while the set is on, and it will take longer than the manufacturer's specified time to charge the battery. Also, the charger may run hot because it's being overloaded.

Put a clamp ammeter at one of the electrical supply wire and take note of the running current reading (amperes) with the motorpump running. Compare this with the rated current of the motor. It must be lower or equal to the rated current. From your comment that it is very hot to touch, I assume that the running current reading is higher than the rated current. To lower the running current, install a service **** or flow control valve at the discharge line. Then, put back the clamp ammeter at one of the electrical supply line/wire. Start the pumpmotor and slowly close the service ****/flow control valve until your running current reading is 85% to 90% of the rated current (amperes). I can assure you that the motor temperature will be lower.

I have a 2002 Infinity 6 man spa that I just got from a friend. I am also an Electrician. I had to replace the Spa pack because it wasn't working. Once I replaced the Spa Pack and used the tub it got up to temp no problem but once I got in the temperature slowly dropped and it couldn't keep up. After some research and discussion with a pool tech I found out that there is a jumper on some spa packs. It is a LC (low current) / HC (high current) jumper. It limits the current (amperage) that your tub draws. If you are running it on the LC setting it keeps the tub at low current by not running the heater when the jets are on. (this way it keeps the current low by running one only at a time) If you set it for HC it will allow high current to be drawn and let the heater and the jets be on at the same time. On my spa pack it is P26 Jumper. I have found it is also listed as Jumper 4 on some spa packs. the jumpers are located in the lower right of the circuit board. Make sure you shut off the power to the tub and know what you're doing before you attempt changes. you can also google "Gecko Spa Pack Service Manual" and you will find the manual for your tubs spa pack. Good luck.