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Pamela Bates Posted on Jul 01, 2008
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Whirpool Icemaker Whirlpool ed2lhaxmq10 not making ice. Found it with six cubes in the dispenser and a frozen blob in the heater. Ejector blade at 2 o'clock. Not sure if switch or modular component. Points LN read 108 volts on VOM? Red light blinks when beam is broken. Stops whe holding door and light switch. Don't think it is infrared but voltage to module doesn't vary from 108 when light beam is broken or complete. Shorted T&H but motor didn't run. Anyway of positively confirming infrared is working before I replace module? Why 108Volts???

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  • Posted on Jul 01, 2008
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Pam, if the ejector blades are in the 2:00 positon then it's in it's home position. When you open the freezer door, you should see two flashes followed by a pause repeatedly. Hold the left side emitter down and the light should stay on steady. If you have this, the optics are good. Next step is to remove the ice maker from the mount and inspect the module. Make sure that the two clips that are holding the center wheel are not broken, If you only see one clip, then it's broken. If that is ok, make sure the fill tube is not frozen up, they have a habit of doing that. If it is, use a baster and thaw it with hot water. If that is ok, leave the ice maker on the top shelf with the harness attached. Unplug the refrigerator and insert a jumper between T&H. Close the freezer door. Plug the refer back in and wait 50 seconds. Now open the freezer door and see if the ice maker is cycling. You may have to press the light switch 3 times. If it is cycling it will call for the fill when the ejector blades are at 12:00 high. If it's doesnt cycle, try it again. Sometimes this takes up to 3 times to get it to cycle. If it fails to start after 3 attempts and the optics are good, replace the module. Let me know how you make out. Catriver

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Whirlpool model # ed5vhexvq1 side by side ...ice maker will not dispense ice..water works but it sounds as if there is no power going to icemaker from dispenser

Does the icemaker bucket has ice cubes. If yes then your problem is in the dispensor. If no ice cubes on the icemaker bucket then your problem is with the ice maker unit.

Let say Ice cubes on the ice maker bucket and dispensor makes noise when pressing for ice cubes. Then either your ice dispensor flapper is frozen or may be ice cubes in bucket may have defrost and frozen again sticking together.
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Whirlpool ice maker (626662) runs water in and freezes but will not eject ice cubes

Hello there
Here is some things for you to check ok
The motor turns the ejector blades which rotate until they contact the ice. Because the ice is frozen to the mold, it cannot be pushed out and the motor stalls. As the blades continue to press on the ice, the ice mold heater begins heating the mold. Once the ice loosens the ejector motor turns, the mold heater shuts off and the ice is pushed out.
so what i would first do is to check the mold heater to see if it is working
and if this is good than check the motor for the ejector blade and see if it is recieving power if it is have the motor itself checked to see if it is bad ok
I hope that this is very helpful for you there is still a lot more that can be checked but try these first ok
Best regards michael
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Pour about 1/2 cup of water into ice maker . If it dumps , replace the water valve . If doesn't dump , replace the ice maker . Also make sure the coils are clean of dust , lint , etc...
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Ice maker doesn't turn out the ice/ tray fills with water, and freezes, but doesn't turn out the ice into the door dispenser.

Top 2 possiblities

1/ The motor that ejects the ice is shot.

or

2/ the heater element that melts the ice into pieces.

Here is where you can probably pinpoint problem.

Making Ice When everything is hooked up, the icemaker begins its cycle. The cycle is usually controlled by a simple electrical circuit and a series of switches. In the diagram below, you can see how the icemaker moves through its cycle.
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  • At the beginning of the cycle, a timed switch in the circuit briefly sends current to a solenoid water valve. In most designs, the water valve is actually positioned behind the refrigerator, but it is connected to the central circuit via electrical wires. When the circuit sends current down these wires, the charge moves a solenoid (a type of electromagnet), which opens the valve.
  • The valve is only open for about seven seconds; it lets in just enough water to fill the ice mold. The ice mold is a plastic well, with several connected cavities. Typically, these cavities have a curved, half-circle shape. Each of the cavity walls has a small notch in it so each ice cube will be attached to the cube next to it.
  • Once the mold is filled, the machine waits for the water in the mold to freeze. The cooling unit in the refrigerator does the actual work of freezing the water, not the icemaker itself (see How Refrigerators Work for details). The icemaker has a built-in thermostat, which monitors the temperature level of the water in the molds. When the temperature dips to a particular level -- say, 9 degrees Fahrenheit (-13 degrees Celsius) -- the thermostat closes a switch in the electrical circuit (see How Home Thermostats Work for details on this operation).
  • Closing this switch lets electrical current flow through a heating coil underneath the icemaker. As the coil heats up, it warms the bottom of the ice mold, loosening the ice cubes from the mold surface.
icemaker-bottom.jpg
-->The icemaker has a heating coil underneath the ice mold.
  • The electrical circuit then activates the icemaker's motor. The motor spins a gear, which rotates another gear attached to a long plastic shaft. The shaft has a series of ejector blades extending out from it. As the blades revolve, they scoop the ice cubes up and out of the mold, pushing them to the front of the icemaker. Since the cubes are connected to one another, they move as a single unit.
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  • At the front of the icemaker, there are plastic notches in the housing that match up with the ejector blades. The blades pass through these notches, and the cubes are pushed out to a collection bin underneath the icemaker.
  • The revolving shaft has a notched plastic cam at its base. Just before the cubes are pushed out of the icemaker, the cam catches hold of the shut-off arm, lifting it up. After the cubes are ejected, the arm falls down again. When the arm reaches its lowest resting position, it throws a switch in the circuit, which activates the water valve to begin another cycle. If the arm can't reach its lowest position, because there are stacked-up ice cubes in the way, the cycle is interrupted. This keeps the icemaker from filling your entire freezer with ice; it will only make more cubes when there is room in the collection bin.
This system is effective for making ice at home, but it doesn't produce enough ice for commercial purposes, such as restaurants and self-service hotel ice machines. In the next section, we'll look at a larger, more powerful icemaker design.
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you likely need a new icemaker (part # 2198597) i would visit the following website to help determine this fact.  http://fixitnow.com/sbrvrs/icemakers.htm
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There is ice blocking the assy. You need to get in there and clean it out. You WILL find a piece of ice that is blocking the assembly from turning. Happens more often than you think. Be careful when you get the piece out the blades will revolve forcefully once unhindered.
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Ice maker not dropping the ice once it is frozen.

Yes there is a heater that releases the ice cubes from the tray as they are being elected. There is an overheat thermostate relay inseries with the element in the ice maker assembly. The element is installed in the metal housing that holds the tray.

If the cubes do not release the heater should remain on until they do. Suggest that you turn off the ice maker by lifting arm to off and wait several hours. Open door drop arm and observe. If the cubes remain stuck when ejector fingers attempt to eject and ice doesen't eject then heater is not coming on. Suggest replace ice maker. The parts are easily available and easy to replace!
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