Question about PfaFF Creative 7570

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Cant hem unable to workout what length to start with to end up with the correct length required looking at the manual it says to take the hem and fold it over etc. but its very confusing

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Sorry, I don't understand just what you mean by "length to start". Length of what - stitch? hem turn-up?
Let us assume you are taking up a hem of a pair of pants. Try them on and put a pin where you want the hem to finish i.e. this will be the bottom of the pants. Take pants off, turn them inside out (careful that your pin does not fall out!) and fold the excess pants on that pin mark. The excess fabric should be on the outside, not tucked inside the leg tunnel. Measure how much it is from the existing hem to where you folded it over, let us say for the purposes of this exercise it is 4 inches. Your hem is to be 1 inch and you need 1/2 inch to turn under for a neat finish, total 1 1/2 inches, so you need to cut off 2 1/2 inches from the bottom of each pants leg. Fold 1/2inch at new leg bottom (wrong side of fabric to wrong side), press, fold 1 inch hem same way and press. Place pins every 2inches or so at a right angle to the hem edge. Pins should come out 1/4inch from edge of hem where the 1/2inch neatening fold was made (this is where I wish I could draw a picture!). Fold the hem back inside the leg tunnel. The pins should make the fabric fold under only enough so that 1/4inch of the hem sticks out beyond the pants leg. You will sew on this bit using the blind hem stitch (04 on my 7550). You might need to adjust the stitch width - not length - so that the straight part of the stitch goes along the hem bit and the zig-zag JUST bites into the pants leg fabric.
I do hope this lengthy explanation is of some use to you!

Posted on Jul 07, 2008

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I need to hem a t-shirt but not sure how...ie: type of stitch,length,needle et...do I need to zig zag first then finish off with a stretch stitch ? Thanks


The best way to hem around a garment where the seam is going to receive stretching during wearing is with a stretch twin (double) needle.

Pretty easy, just turn up an even hem of 15mm right around the hem line (I am assuming that the bottom edge is even, if not, trim it up first), and press this hem allowance up, pin if you have a jersey that won't stay flat but many cotton knits are fine and the pressing will be enough.

Then thread up your sewing machine for twin needle sewing, refer to your manual if you have never done this before. You will thread two spools of same colour thread up on top of the machine and bring both threads through all threading points down to your needle, then one through each needle eye. Some machines will have a tension device where you can run each thread on either side of a tension disc, most will have twin spools on top of the machine to hold both spools.

You need a stretch twin needle, Schmetz do these in two sizes,
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Size:
2.5/75, 4.0/75
Twin needles look like this.
tally_girl_65.jpg I prefer the 2.5mm gap between the needles. Dont try with a regular twin, it must be stretch needle with ball point points. On some computerised machines, you need a twin needle with a blue bridge, on mechanical machines it will have a red bridge (something to do with horizonal hooks I think). But read your manual or look in your accessory box, your machine may have come with a twin needle and if so, make a note of the needle bridgecolour, then buy that one next time.

Now, set the machine for a straight stitch and place the garment right side up, with the folded hem allowance underneath on the sewing machine and align the folded edge on your 10mm marking. Start at a side seam, and stitch SLOWLY around the whole hem line until you get back to the starting point. Stop, cut your threads and press again. Voila done. I never bother to zigzag a knit fabric, just stitch it. Knits don't fray.

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1 Answer

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Just trim the fabric to the desired hem length plus one inch, then overlock around this raw edge with thread close colour match to the fabric.

You then have the choice of either stitching around with a stretch stitch on your sewing machine, or hand sewing.

Being lycra shouldn't change how you hem them unless the trouser leg is extremely close fitting and the hem seam is going to be under tension.

My first choice would be using a twin needle in straight stitch from top side but this finish can pop/break if the hem is under tension. But perfect for most knit hems.

If you hand sew then you can turn up hem allowance and put a length of fusible hemming web inside the hem allowance and press it to hold. Then do a back stitch hand sew around to hold hem in place.

If you sew with the regular sewing machine, then use either the stretch stitch or a very small zig zag, and a ball point or stretch needle.

On ready to wear you would see a coverstitch hem but your overlocker doens't have this stitch.

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I like to test each of these techniques by making a sample with the same fabric and adjusting length when using the twin needle or width and length when doing the blind hem.

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1 Answer

I need help with hemming and placing button holes in daygown.


Hi:

You can easily trim a hem down a bit before actually hemming it up. Many patterns allow for a lot longer hem than you will ever use, but that also allows for people both for adult and childrens patterns that may need the extra length. Often if you know the length you will need before you cut the pattern you can make the adjustments before you cut the pattern. As to putting a button hole in a hem, I have done so, especially on an adults outfit where the hem will never likely need to be let down. Sometimes on a childs pattern, putting the button hole in a hem means you can not let the hem down, and as I learned with my youngest two kids, who went through growth spirts twice a year and could easily grow 3 inches in less than 3 weeks during this time, I did not want to limit my options so I never put a button home or any trim through a hem line that might limit my ability to lengthen a newly made outfit.

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