Question about Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer
I put laundry in the machine, closed the door and turned it on. In a matter of seconds the panel started beeping, and I'm getting a blinking message "do" and I can't open the door anymore. The machine started filling, then stopped and also showed "PF" error message, now it's only showing "do", no more water is going in, and I cannot open the door. What does it mean? What do I do? Not sure if the product number below is correct, I can't see it and can't find the manual. Please help.
Somewhere part through the cycle it just stops. I get the error message "lr". I can pause the cycle, but then it won't restart - I just get a series of beeps. I did try to just spin out the water from the load and although it sounded like the motor was running, the drum was not spinning.
I replaced the upper control board and it blew again does any know what could be the problem
Posted on Jan 14, 2010
Stop trying to start machine! If you have the LR "locked rotor" then your motor control board has probably blown. This board is located near the floor on the right side. See www.neptunewaxmotor.com for disassembly pics and other important information.
Sometimes when the motor control board blows it can blow the upper machine control board too ecause the motor control board has a 170 VDC rail that if you blow (or crack) integrated circuit components you can lose your voltage isolation and back feed high voltage into upper board thus blowing it too!
You can remove the soap dispenser (4 philips screws) and there should be a nylon pull cord under the top panel so you can get the door opened by pulling on the cord.
Check out the motor control board near the floor on the right side. These have a high failure rate on the Neptunes. Maytag redesigned both the motor and motor control board to be more reliable. While inspecting this board, you are looking for a blown 10 amp fuse and /or burnt components. If you have either... then you will need the the new motor conversion kit which includes the motor, motor control board and the wire harness. Again, see www.neptunewaxmotor.com for details.
Posted on Jul 05, 2008
This means locked rotor. you have a bad motor control unit. take the door off by removing the 4 screws also take the side/front panel off. You will see the motor control board. Do you have a delay wash cycle? If you do set it to delay wash remove the jp4 connector if the unit tumbles on it's own then the motor controller is fine but if it does not then you have a bad motor control board. Check it out and let me know. also there is a fuse on that board if you can locate it and check for continuity that will also help diagnose it. MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG IT FIRST THOUGH!!!!
Posted on Jun 04, 2009
you need to replace the motor and the motor control board,it comes in a kit,call your parts store give them the model number and the first two on the serial.common problem with the neptune,the wire harness that plugs into the motor is strait down,moisture runs down the harness and gets into the connectors,it's around 200 bucks for the kit
Posted on Feb 21, 2010
Error LR means Locked Rotor.
Either the motor is faulty, there is a wiring problem, or the control assembly is faulty.
Try tripping the circuit breaker to reset the machine, if code comes back a technician must have a look at the motor.
Posted on Jun 13, 2010
The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.
Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.
The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.
The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.
Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.
The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.
Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.
The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.
Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.
Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I'd call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.
Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.
Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.
The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.
They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.
The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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