Frame Counter Indicator does not go beyond the 26th and 27th Frame
Hi my wonderful FE works well but I have experienced this problem. When I am using a 36 exposure roll of film, the frame counter does not go beyond the 26 or 27th Frame Counter. Is there a problem with the frame counter. This happens even when I am using the camera with and without the MD 12 Motor drive. Need assistance to find out if its a problem with the frame counter indicator or a problem with the camera itself.
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Re: Frame Counter Indicator does not go beyond the 26th...
Considering the age of the camera, you probably have a broken indicator gear in the top of the camera. The chances of getting it replaced aren't good. If it still works otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it. Just use 24 exposure film.
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Canon AE-1 35mm SLR is a manual focus camera EOS is Canon's designation of auto focus EOS stands for Electro-Optical System. The problem you are experiencing is caused by several little things that throws the camera, wind and cocking leaver out of synchronization or simply come to the end of the roll. There is a frame counter window just to the left of the shutter release behind the shutter speed dial. Also if you have just loaded film in the camera it may not be seated correctly check by releasing the rewind button, wind the film back but not all the way and open the camera to restart the film.
The battery check is by pressing a very small silver button on the top plate by the shutter release and the little red light come on right? there is only two small button batteries in the EM but without them it's a brick. So look inside the battery compartment and at the bottom you will see a spring piece of metal which the batter makes contact with. If it is corroded then you will have to clean that off to make contact again. Take a new pencil with a new unused red rubber eraser and form a piece of sand paper over the end of the pencil and tape it securely. Lightly twist the pencil back and forth between your fingers to sand off the corrosion, make it shinny. Blow out the dusty dirty stuff with a puffer make sure the batteries are installed correctly. Yes I know you said the batteries were in the right way install the batteries check wiht the battery test button. Also don't forget the EM is a totally battery dependent camera for the meter AND the meter will not work until you have the frame counter at frame # 1 and beyond. My Nikon EM has been slightly modified yours might not be the same but I can close the back and advance the lever trip the shutter and again until it reaches frame one and then the light meter works. Cheers great little camera hope you get it working
Confirm tht DX shows in LCD. If not then press and hold shift button then press ISO so "DX" appears.Open Camera Back. Insert film cartridge, pull film leader out to right and align with red index mark (inside film chamber on right). Make sure there is no slack in leader.Close camera back until lock release snaps closed. Fully depress shutter until film advances to first frame.
Confirm " 1" and film transport show in LCD. If Film is not loaded correctly, "ERR" show on LCD. Open cack and reload film.
Users manual can be downloaded from: http://www.lensinc.net/manuals/Nikon_N6006L.pdf
This won\'t be easy for you if you don\'t the proper tools, You have to remove the wind lever assy, and the speed dial, Then wind side top cover, Then pull wind base plate assy, And check counter reset lever, to make sure spring didn\'t come loose, Putting the baseplate back on can be fun because of linkage to the wind assy
frame counter,mechanism is bad,before u get it fixed,try urself open the back door of the film chamber u will find a lever just below the number counter,move it freely ,push and leave, the put a dummy roll and move forward the film,if u get number counter working ok
If the batteries discharged sufficiently to become very warm in just a few seconds then there's an internal short circuit and the internal circuitry has almost certainly been fried beyond repair. To get warm so fast, those batteries will have shoved some significant current through circuitry designed to handle mere milliamps.
Your camera will be repairable using donor spares, but the repair will cost more than buying another fully functional FE especially when you add on the costs of the CLA (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) service that it will almost certainly need and the likely need for foam light seal replacement. If you buy another FE it will also most likely need a CLA and seal replacement unless there's proof of it being recently done, but at least you won't have the additional costs of buying a donor FE, stripping it for parts and then doing a heart transplant on it.
On balance, yours is best used as a spares donor; you'll get some of what you spent back if you sell it as a spares/repairs example.
Sorry there's no fix, but I hope that you have still found my reply to be of some use. If so, please rate my answer.
Simple, the film counter unit has plastic gears underneath. the gear position or gear has worned out. simply replace the counter unit and adjust. This can be performed by any local repair shop for less than $100. -James. for further assistance email, go to www.camerarepairjapan.com
YES, THE PROBABLE CAUSE IS THAT AFTER 25 YEARS OF USE YOUR POOR NIKON PROBABLY JUST NEEDS A GOOD CLEANING! I DON'T THINK IT IS ANYTHING A GOOD CLEANING CAN'T CURE. I HAVE INCLUDED A COUPLE OF SHOPS THAT REPAIR NIKONS AND GIVE FREE ESTIMATES. WHILE I DON'T ENDORSE ANY REPAIR SHOP PERSONNALLY, I PASS THESE ALONG FOR YOUR INFORMATION. I HOPE THIS HELPS. I REALLY BELIEVE THIS WILL TAKE CARE OF YOUR PROBLEMS. ALSO, BY THE WAY, I ALSO HAVE A NIKON FE AND IT'S A GREAT CAMERA. ENJOY!
Having film in the camera makes no difference for the frame counter to work on this model. The counter is activated by a small tab that protrudes from the top edge of the film door near the hinge.
Locate the area on the camera where that tab meets in the channel along the top of the film compartment. There is a small opening for the lever that engages the drive gear for the counter. The opening may have debris (foam) or the tab may be broken. If neither of these is the case, the film door may be bent slightly and is not pushing the lever in far enough.
It is important for the counter to work on the FG since the metering is not active until the counter reaches '1'. (switch) It blinks 60 &125 in the display otherwise