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Model RS253baww Samsung side by side, the freezer side works well however the refrigerator side will only cool down to the 50's

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  • Anonymous Apr 20, 2009

    freezer light blinking and not freezing

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6 Suggested Answers

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator won't cool. Freezer works fine!

Pierce, there was a service bullitin put out on this model. TDR-0010A-B. Had to do with normal freezer, warm fresh food compartment. Maytag issued a kit that included a new thermostat and damper assy. to solve this problem. Bullitin came out in 2002. If you are not having a defrost issue and all fans are running normal, I would call Maytag and inquire about the above posted bullitin, It may be covered. Catriver...post back.

Posted on Sep 04, 2006

Tech007
  • 63 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool side by side refrigerator not cooling

it might have a defrost problem check timer heaters and defrost limiter if it has a build up of ice in the freezer on back panel if not try turning the control for the food caompartment to let more cold into the food compartment

Posted on Aug 29, 2007

SOURCE: maytag refrigerator side-by-side model MSD2756GE

remove the baskets and shelves in the freezer and remove the rear panels after shutting the fridge down. If you see heavy frost on the coils then the defrost model needs replaced. If not, check the that the fans runs, and then that the thermostat works and then that the damper that allows the air to the fridge compartment is opening correctly.

Posted on Sep 05, 2008

tech master
  • 120 Answers

SOURCE: frigidaire frs26zrf

IS THE EVAPORATOR FAN INSIDE FREZZER WORKING AT ALL IF IS NOT WORKING THEN THERE IS NO AIR FLOW TO THE BOTTOM PART

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Samsung RS2533SW freezer not cooling problem

I was having the same problem but with the refrigerator side. I know your problem was with the freezer side but I hope this works in your situation too. I was also told to unplug the fridge for 20 minutes and that did not do a thing to reset the circuit board in my situation. Unplug the refrigerator first. In the back of the refrigerator at the bottom is a metal panel. Remove that panel and off to the right side of it should be a white looking plastic box. Unscrew that box from the fridge and open it up to get to the circuit board. Remove ALL harnesses from the circuit board and capacitor. After doing so plug them all back in and reassemble everything back together and plug in the fridge. This should reset the board and allow it to function correctly. This is advice I got from someone else and everything as of today is cooling down like it should. I hope this helps everyone else out. Best of luck.

Also since the evaporator was frozen solid at the bottom on the refrigerator side I had to leave the power off until it thawed and then had to soak up all the water that collected at the bottom of it.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: Samsung Refrigerator model number RS2630SH Getting

Hi,

Welcome to FixYa.

I`ll start by letting you know first the heat between the doors is normal...to a degree, and done by design to help prevent moisture along the "breaker strip"/divider.
If all else appears fine, temp. Ok, fans running, no significant frost build up on freezer back wall, it's likely nothing to be concerned about.

**Just be sure the condensor fan isn't jammed and still turning.** The fan at the back next to the compressor...

i.e.

8f812cf.jpg
Your actual condensor fan assembly may differ in appearance, but generally this is what to look for.


But just so you know, the amount of heat can be determined by several factor's such as,

1) temperature setting - lower ( colder ) the temperature is set the more the run time the hotter the strip.

2) The ambient temperature - hotter the environment the more the unit runs to compensate, hence the hotter the strip.

3) The amount of "fresh" content added to the unit ( especially freezer section if unfrozen items added ) - new items add a lot of warmth thus demanding the unit to run more to remove this heat (btu`s or british thermal unit`s )causing the strip to be hotter.

4) Build up of dust & dirt on the condensor coils - this also causes the unit to run excessively which in turn makes for more heat on this strip.

These are all things which can and do determine the amount of heat between the doors.

Another factor to always consider is of course If it is hot where you live the unit may just be running more to compensate as with other factors I mentioned.

Hope this answer's your question and let me know if I can assist you further.


Thank's for coming to "fixya" and good luck moving forward.

Please take a second to write a brief testimony and rate the info provided here.


Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Posted on Dec 01, 2010

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