Question about GE DCSR483EA Electric Dryer

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Element does not turn off.

During any dryer cycle the element will turn on and remain on. It no longer switches on and off to manage the temperature. If the controls are set to anything with heat, the element will turn on without hitting start. I assume that it must be a thermostat or switch problem however I am told there are two thermostats.

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  • actually is sounds like the centrifugal switch in the motor is bad. 
  • the element should not turn on unless the motor is running. 
  • the thermostats are in place to pick up the heat of the airflow, not necessarily the heat directly coming from the element.

Posted on Jul 06, 2008

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My Electrolux EDV 605clothes dryer is turning but not heating, heating element is ok possible faulty thermistor, dryer heats up when thermistor is unplugged but has an error code of 5 beeps


I think you're absolutely right exhaust sensor is faulty.

The buzzer will give 5 beeps, all program LEDs will flash for 5 seconds and the dryer will continue with the cycle. The warning beeps and flashing LEDs will occur every 30 seconds.
On Timer Drying programs it will run for the time remaining and in Sensor Drying programs it will run for 90 minutes. As the exhaust air temperature can not be sensed the element will be cycled on and off at a preset amount. The cycling time of the element will vary depending on the amount of time remaining.

NOTE: When this fault exists the dryer can still be used but regardless of the Sensor Drying program selected the dryer will use the 90 minute Timer Drying program, Timer Drying programs will use the selected program, and with both types of programs the element will cycle as above. The buzzer will also still be sounding.

If an exhaust sensor fault is detected the buzzer will beep and the Reminder Clean the Filter LED will flash. The LED flashes at different rates depending what is wrong with the sensor -

Fast (4 per second) = open circuit senor, broken wiring or multi pin plug not correctly fitted to the control board.
Slow (2 per second) = Short circuit in sensor or wiring.

The sensor resistance at different temperatures is as shown below.

Temperature (Celsius) Resistence (Ohms)
55 2960
50 3570
45 4330
40 5280
35 6490
30 8030
25 10000
20 12555
15 15880
10 20260
5 26080
0 33870

As you can see this is NTC thermistor with Negative Temperature Coefficient , means if temperature increasing the resistance decreasing.

Dado

Jul 06, 2015 | Electrolux Dryers

1 Answer

Cloths are not drying in one cycle and need to extend the time of the drycycle not sure how? Model no dcd330gy1wc


Hi demetriosqat...
Sounds like you have a Clogged Vent or Heating Element problem.

If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork.
Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry.
It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry.
But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry.
To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.

Heating Element
Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element.
You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms.
Cycling thermostat
Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it.
The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork .
This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2.
These 2 terminals should have continuity.
If not replace the thermostat.
Please take time to rate me thumbs up.

Sep 10, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Have a frigidaire "gallery" series stackable washer/dryer, the heating element initially turns on when the dryer starts. you can see the element light up and feel heat but after a minute of run time the...


Hi,
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

Check out this tip that will give more details…

Gas dryer not working gas dryer not heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not


If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
Check out this tip to see the things that can fail to cause your electric dryer not to work.

Dryer Troubleshooting Electric dryer wont heat
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won


heatman101

Aug 22, 2010 | Frigidaire Dryers

1 Answer

My kenmore dryer is blowing only cold air. What is wroge? We already checked the heating element and timer...???? This dryer is only 4 years old.


The heating circuit is composed not only by the heating element and the timer but also with a high-limit thermostat, a thermal cut-off, and a cycling thermostat. The high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off are both mounted on the heater housing to monitor and regulate the heater temperature while the cycling thermostat is mounted on the blower housing to monitor and regulate the temperature of the exhaust air.

All of these components are wired in series and a failure in any of them results in the dryer not heating. The proper troubleshooting is by checking the continuity of each of these components with a volt-ohmmeter and replacing the ones found without continuity (open).

A continuity check can also be done by bypassing each of the three components, never the heating element, and then starting the dryer. The dryer should heat, otherwise the problem is somewhere in the timer, the heating element, or the centrifugal switch within the motor. When the dryer heats up, unplug it then un-bypass one of the bypassed components and start the dryer. If the dryer stops heating then you have found the failed component; replace it. If the dryer does not stop heating, do the same to the remaining components until you find the failed one. Just make sure the dryer is unplugged before touching the components.

Replace both the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off if any of them has failed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer if you need further or more specific advice.

Jun 12, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore electric dryer model 62828 takes two full cycles to dry instead of one dave


change the high-limit/cycling switch located on the element tubes outside,they get weak from heat and cycle too soon,so element cools frequently during drying

Mar 12, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer no longer heats. Checked continuity on the


check continuity of the thermal fuse,the cycling switch,the hi-limit switch any of these that are open will stop heating all are on or near the element or air flow path to the vent

Jan 27, 2010 | Kenmore 64902 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My Bosch dryer spins but does not heat up. It is


Most likely it is the thermal switch that is located near the heating elements. This switch is the device that regulates the temperature. When it goes bad, it remains open usually. Short of a burned heating element wire, this is probably it. The only other thing it could be is the switch on the end of the motor. This switch turns on the heating element only if the motor runs. Check that too. Good luck.

Nov 28, 2009 | Bosch Nexxt WTMC 3300 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Heating element stays on


stat or a clogged vent system. Clean any lint from the internal and external ductwork, and/or replace the cycling thermostat (read about cycling thermostats in "Drying is too slow," above).
Drying is too slow It normally takes about 45 minutes for a dryer to dry a full load. If your dryer is taking more than an hour, check these.

Vent
Heating element
Internal ductwork
Cycling thermostat
Vent Frequently there's an obstruction in the vent duct from the dryer to the outside of the house. For the dryer to heat properly, the duct must be clean and clear of lint or any other substance. 

Heating element Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace it. 

Internal ductwork Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In most dryers, to get to the internal ductwork to clear the clog, you have to substantially disassemble the dryer. A quick way to check for internal clogs is to remove the lint filter and use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct. If it looks clogged and you can't clear it using your vacuum, contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

Cycling thermostat Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork with two screws.

Mar 07, 2009 | Whirlpool LER7646J Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer will not heat


the limit switches are known to go bad on dryers

Feb 13, 2009 | Crosley CDE6000 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool Electric Dryer Model LER8858EQ1 TYPE NO. 180-0


Based on the information that you provided, if you open the door in mid-cycle and the motor shuts off, but the element stays on, this will stop the air flow through the dryer and the element. The element temperature will rise drastically because it is not being cooled. Subsequently, to prevent a fire, the thermal fuse will open, shutting the element, and in some cases the motor, down.
A heating element gets its power from the timer, through the cycling thermostat(s),and to 1 side of the element.
When the motor starts, power is passed through the centrifugal switch in the motor, through the hi-limit thermostat and the thermal fuse to the other side of the element.
There is no ground wiring involved in the heat side of the dryer.
1. An element can stay on because it has broken and fell against the metal tube where it picks up a ground. Solution is to replace the element.
2. The centrifugal switch mounted on or in the motor can fail to open when the motor stops and allow current to flow through it
until the points in the timer open up, breaking the circuit.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Jun 23, 2008 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

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