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This is very complicated. Take it to a professional repair place - if you can find someone who is still willing to work on this. Most techs (including me) won't any more. You have to remove the front cover, then the left and right side top covers, which is about 20 steps. Set at auto/asa 100 for reference. there is a plastic knob that looks sort of like a hat on the shutter speed dial that is glued on and is hard to remove without damaging it. There is a locking nut inside the shutter release collar. Etc. If you can find a copy of the SPT issue with that camera covered it will help you a lot. try eBay
It's normally referred to as a depth of field preview. It's used to stop down the lens to whatever aperture you've set it to, so you can preview the depth of field to see how much of your scene will be in focus at any given aperture. It's not often used, but can be important in macro and portrait photography when a shallow depth of field and critical point of focus are both necessary.
I think the aperture is not shutting down to the opening you set it to. In an SLR, the aperture is normally fully open for viewing through the lens. When you press the button, the mirror flips up and the aperture closes to the figure you have set, then the shutter fires. If you have set a daytime aperture and the aperture sticks, you get a wide open aperture and an overexposed shot, but at night, you have set an open or almost open aperture anyway.
It is possible that the shutter is the problem, but the aperture is more likely to go wrong in my experience. It only takes a drop of oil on the blades. There ought to be a button or lever to shut the aperture down for depth of field preview which you could use to test this, or just look in the lens when the shutter fires to see if the aperture closes.
Yes it does. Check your manual. If you don't have a manual you can get a pdf download from canon. This link should get you there. http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&tabact=SupportDetailTabAct&fcategoryid=214&modelid=9429#DownloadDetailAct
You have a case of AE(auto exposure) Unit faulty or getting bad. It suppose to register as it move within the AE unit according to the exposure calculation but somehow it is broken. Technician usualy replace the AE unit and takes care of the problem. It can also be rebuilt if new parts are not available. This requires complete disassembly and mirror box removal. The average cost of repair probably runs around $100. Yes, "A" mode is correct for most of the shots and it was a state of art electronic system and more computerized than you think. It has 3 IC chips in there for precessing and 1 chip for the exposure. All works together for good. -James
you might have the lens on incorrectly . or bent /jammed the small bar that inserts with the lens. take off the lens and look at the little silver /black bar that sticks out the back does it move easily and look at he corresponding lever in the front to the camera
To open the back pull on the rewind knob ( pulling up ) until back opens. Check that your 6 volt battery is ok ( ae -1 has an electronic shutter so will not work without a battery ): battery situated on the left hand side of the camera ( if it is facing you ) underneath small flip up door ( lock is at the bottom on the left of the small door ) . Check the battery by pressing the shutter release gently and seeing if your light meter needle moves. No movement ? replace battery.
You have two modes for taking pictures : auto which is actually AV ( aperture priority) or full manual : both are set by moving the shutter speed dial on the top right hand side ( underneath film winding lever ).