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Maytag front loading gas dryer

May tag dryer is 10+ years old and has developed this sound in the drum that sounds as though the belts that drives it is slipping. Is this a common problem with these units and if so, can an amateur fix it or would it be less expensive to find a fairly new unit on crag's list.

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Usually when it sounds like that it is because the one of the wheels involved with movment (support rollers or tensioner pulley) has started to wear down or has build up in side of it. I don't know what specific model you have, but this is a tear down and replace for these parts on a generic maytag frontload dryer. (elec or gas makes no difference in this procedure).First unplug the unit. Remove the front panel by removing the 4 phillips
screws just inside the door (on the hinges and just opposite). Next remove the greenish/ brown 5/16 screws that hold the front panel in. There are wires still connected (door switch and moisture sensor) but if you swing it to the side, you can leave them connected and still procede. Next, you have to reach underneath (very difficult to see this so you will have to do it by feel) There is a belt that wraps around the drum. On the underneath side of the drum as you follow the belt it wraps
around the motor pulley (small wheel) and the tensioner pulley (bigger wheel just to the right). Now with one hand, move the larger pulley towards the msaller one. This will give you slack and you can take the belt off both pulleys. Now pull the drum
forward. There you have the inner workings left. Now, there are 3 wheels. 2 black and 1 white. Your squeeking noise will be coming from the one that doesn't turn freely. You can get the replacement wheel from your local appliance parts store or on line from the manufatrues web site. However, if you do have to wait for the part, take the wheel off the shaft and wipe off the inside race of the wheel and the shaft for temporarily relife and useage.

Posted on Jul 01, 2008

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My maytag dryer is only 8 years old ,it ran for 10 minutes and stopped running, checked the breaker not that checked the plug not that what could have happened?


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley, or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor or belt and if you have a front loading machine:
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Sep 23, 2010 | Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore gas dryer won't turn


It sounds like the belt is stretched or slipping. The belt needs to be replaced. It has been a few years, but dryer cabinets haven't changed that much.First, unplug the dryer from the electical outlet. If the lint filter slides out the top, then remove the two screws that you see in that top door. Pop the two front clips and open the top like a clamshell. You should be able to see where the belt goes around the drum. The front is held on by a couple of bolts at the top of each side. If you remove them the front will swing out, but be careful with the door switch wires. Before removing the old belt, pay attention how it goes around the motor tension pulleys. Slide the old belt off and slide the new one on. Reassemble. I hope this helps

Mar 28, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My Maytag Dryer has developed a winding noise when turned on


Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, Or the belt is maybe slipping on the drum
If you have a front loading machine, Unplug the dryer, remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers. Check your drum belt at this time.
Check your rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them replace them.
If they don't then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good Luck,
I hope this helps

Oct 18, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

My Maytag dryer is 14 years old. Now it makes a


Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication.
If you have a front loading machine, Unplug the dryer, remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers.
Check your rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them replace them.
If they don't then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve you noise problem.
Yes, replacing the drum rollers is fairly cheap especially if you do it yourself, saves you the price of a new dryer for a few more years maybe.
Good Luck,
I hope this helps

Oct 08, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

My maytag dryer makes an obscene rumbling noise every 10 seconds. It's still running and the heat works, but it sounds like it is about to shake itself apart.


I have not heard it call obscene but your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication.
If you have a front loading machine, Unplug the dryer, remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers.
Check your rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them replace them.
If they don't then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve you noise problem.
Good Luck,
I hope this helps

Oct 07, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag Performa PYE G2200 gas dryer, the dryer seems to turn on but the drum will not turn.


Based on the information provided, it sounds like a broken drum belt is at fault. Below is an illustration of the drum belt.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-PYG2200+-%3d%3di529597&PartID=529597

Here is a parts/disassembly diagram:
http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Gas-Maytag-Style-Appliance-Diagram

Here is a belt installation diagram:
Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.

Click here for a belt installation diagram.

All links courtesy of www.repairclinic.com

Aug 16, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer noise


A drum support wheel bearing could need lubrication or be replaced.  Also some drum support wheels have a rubber coating that wears off causing misalignment and noise.  Possibly drum gasket (sometimes felt material) where drum meets rear panel is worn allowing metal-to-metal contact--should be replaced.

Jun 02, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MDG7400AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

GE Dryer (new) makes noise


few possibilities here,idle pulleys could be wearing,front drum guides could be wearing,back drum bearing,bit early for these problems though,but sometimes coins get lodged at the drum paddles inside located 120degrees apart which wouldnt be anything to worry about if you can verify this,hope this helps

May 12, 2009 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Squeeking noise


Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.

Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will work for you.

Hi,

My name is Frank...

Regarding your possibly broken dryer.

I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why - I'll explain further down.

I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way over-priced.

This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to death.

Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the 110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.

All else is basically the same...

In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the same as that of a gas dryer.

Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is rare in Florida these days!

If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door, and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken drum belt.

If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot - then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and that does not include labor to install it).

Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.

I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....

Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their refrigerator brands as well.

Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...

The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.

I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you didn't know that. The best in the business!

As to your other possible noise scenario -

The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!

Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305 times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part, but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3) friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.

The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum. A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's frame which houses the door assy as well.

Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17 many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts availability.

Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE very loudly.

The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part that I knew off.

The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go bad!!

I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up though!

That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if your dryer is gas.

I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.

Again - I hope the info helps you out...

Best regards,

Frank

Feb 09, 2008 | GE DBXR463GB Gas Dryer

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