I have two pioneer champions. 4 ohms each. Only one will be powered at a time using the 1st positive and negative on the amp. The other positive works with the first negative. But not the 2nd negative its supposed to be using.
Basically the 2nd negative will not work. So I have them both hooked up to the same negative. And this causes the amp to do into protection mode.
Whats wrong? Should I wire the subs at 2 ohms each?
Fixed. That negative is not functional, but its not necessary to use it. The subs were at 2 ohms each and that was causing the protective mode. Rewired them at 4 ohms. Works fine. Separate positives, same negatives.
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Re: only one sub works
The amp should produce no output when using the left negative and the right positive.
If the amp works bridged (left positive and right negative) with one speaker AND works when you connect one speaker from the left positive to the right positive, it would appear as though the right channel isn't getting any signal.
Try inserting only the left signal cable (nothing plugged into the right RCA jack) to see if the right channel will work when a speaker is connected to the right channel speaker terminals.
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I am assuming these are subs, you didnt say, but that is my guess. do you want bass, or do you want to take it easy on your amp? do you have a terminal cup on your sub box, or just wires going into the box to the speakers? take it easy route: wire positive from amp to positive of one speaker, negative of amp to negative of the other speaker, with a jumper wire connecting the negative of the first speaker, to the positive of the second. more bass route: run seperate positive and negative wires to each speaker, making sure to maintain proper polarity.
That amplifier is only rated at 150 watts at 4 ohms, or 300 watts at 2 ohms. Not a very strong amp to run 2 kicker comps. My guess is you have the subs wired wrong for your application. There are 2 types of subs, one is a dual 4 ohm, and one is a dual 2 ohm. Most people bridge these coils together and that cuts your ohms in half. For example. Lets say you have the 10cvr104 subs. Thats the dual 4 ohm sub. You wire the coils together in parallel, now its a 2 ohm sub. You have 2 of these subs running off of your amp, if they are hooked up in parallel, now you have a 1 ohm load, out of the amplifiers normal operation. Your amplifiers internals heat up really quick and there is a thermal overload, putting your amplifier into circuit protection mode. My suggestion for wiring your subs is as follows: for each speaker, wire the coils together like this- positive coil1 to negative coil 2 and negative coil 1 to positive coil 2. That is called running in series, and doubles your ohm load. Next, we need to wire the speakers together properly to hook up to your amplifier. For this, since the coils are hooked together, you only need to use one set of terminals from each sub. And take the positive from sub 1 and hook it to positive of amp. Take negative sub 1 and hook it to positive of sub 2. Take negative of sub 2 and hook it to negative of amp.
Wire up two 4 Ohm subs in parallel (bridged) or one 2 Ohm sub.
You will take both of your subs positive leads and run them to the left positive (white connector on the amp) and both of your subs negative leads and run them both to the right negative (gray and black connector on the amp). That's max RMS right there. Pay attention to the Ohm rating of your subs as this does play a factor. What I explained is how to bridge two 4 Ohm subs. 8 Ohm is a little different but car subs rarely are 8 Ohm.
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dude TRUST me what you are using and have setup already is plenty..ONE TIP...of all things anyoine ever needs to worry about is the R...M....S power rating...the PEAK means NOTHING! its safe and fine to use what you got.
most car-audio subs are rated at 4 ohms, as opposed to home audio's 6-8 ohms. If you have a pair of 4 ohm subs, wire all 4 positive terminals to the positive terminal on the amp and the sam with the negative sides. The key is to use the same length of wire on all connections.
A single 4 ohm speaker wired to each channel, like you have them wired, presents a 4 ohm load. And it appears that you have them connected properly. The 401s is only stable to 4 ohms when bridged, so if you were to parallel the 2 4 ohm subs in bridged mode, the load would be 2 ohms and the amp would most likely overheat and go into protection.
I'd wire them the way you have them wired.
Each channel of the amp outputs only 100 watts into 4 ohms. That is adequate for regular full-range speakers, component speakers, mid-range drivers, and even some small subs. But it is a little low on power for most subwoofer applications.