Furnace Runs, and then just looses the flame I assume, the Draft Fan continues to run, then it re-ignites and runs normal, does not do it every time the furnace starts up

The fan normally runs for a few minutes or so after the gas shuts off.

This removes the heat from the furnace and transfers it into the living space instead of just letting it possibly cause overheating of the furnace until it dissipates. If it is a fan that blows outside, that fan also needs to run for a few minutes to clear exhaust gasses from the furnace - to keep them from dissipating into your home.

The inducer draft motor has to run and develop the proper amount of negative pressure (checked with a monometer) to close the pressure switch before anything else happens. Even if the pressure switch closed and the igniter energized, the gas valve wouldn't function until the flame is proven by a flame rod or rectification. The fan continues to run (inducer draft motor) because it is still trying to light. Call a qualified tech before you kill yourself or others

There are several things that control the gas valve. A bad flame sensor could cause the valve to shut off upon initial ignition because it's not sensing the flame.

The high limit sensor would shut the unit down only after the unit was runnung for a period of time. It senses the temperature of the heat exchanger. Now if it was bad it wouldn't allow the gas valve to open for ignition.

the only other issue could be with the induced draft blower motor not running.

It it seems to me that the flame sensor is the problem because of the short time your unit runs.

That thang might be sensing a lazy flame. In other words the flames took too long in the board's opinion to quit sensing the flame. Yall probably need to do pressure tap on the gas valve.
Here is a realistic look at goodman fault codes and what to check fer and I am assuming you are not a tech and don't know this already and am hoping it helps:


Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.

Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.

Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.


Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.

Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.

Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.



Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.



See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.



Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.

Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.

Now here is how it should all go down:



Bottom dollar: it all goes back to type of gas, the initial setup, the pressure tap. and how it is wired up to begin with.
This will give you an idea where to start I hope.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

There is a pressure switch near your draft inducer motor that needs to close when draft inducer motor is running. Verify that the switch is closing. If it is not closing, you might have a problem with either the switch itself, or there could be some sort of blockage in your flue. I would start with the switch first. This switch has to "prove" before it will allow anything else to happen. The loud click could be from your switch or your gas valve. If the switch is closing and nothing else is happening, it could be a problem with your gas valve or HSI.

Flip the lower panel over and look for a wiring diagram. On that diagram there will be a diagnostic chart. Let me know what 5 blinks represent. Then I want you to read on.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

bad board,i have had several board failures on goodman

Sound like a thermocouple, or flame sensor.
If it has flame sensor make sure you check micro amps to verify operation, because it might be the board that controls the sensor.