Question about Frigidaire GLRS237ZA Side by Side Refrigerator

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My icemaker is not working

The water was not working for a while and then the ice maker stopped working. So we replaced both water valves and now the water is flowing great and it is cold. But the icemaker is not making any ice. I don't hear the water loading into the icemaker either. What do we do next?

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  • Anonymous Dec 03, 2008

    icemaker stop working but i am still able to get water do i need to refill or what

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  • Frigidaire Master
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Tryusing an hairdryer or defrosting the unit completely , this often getrid of blockage caused by frozen lines fixing the problem.

The water lines can also be unblocked from dirt using a thin flexible shaft. This after defrosting.

If all that does not fix the problem, then you may need to replace thewater valve, the icemaker solenoid, or the whole icemaker assembly.

Enter the model number on one of two websites below to get parts and diagrams for your appliance:


Appliance Parts From PartSelect

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Posted on May 22, 2009

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Icemaker 200D1181G026 WR30X10061 model can15. Is there anyone who can test it and rpair it. It jst stopped working. Water supply ok.


The icemaker system on these machines requires 3 things:
A working ice maker. a working water valve, and 28 degrees or better in the freezer.
Nothing else in the frig controls ice production. Most times the water valve goes first. It is recommended to replace it when replacing the ice maker. Replace the water valve now and see if the ice production starts up. If it does not you will need to get a new ice maker, the old ones are not repairable.

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If there is no ice in the ice mold of the ice maker, you can pour enough water in to make cubes, wait an hour or so for the icemaker to cycle.( freeze and dump the ice). If it does, then your water valve on the back of the refrigerator that the main water line hooks up to is bad. Replace it. The valve has two sides to it. An ice maker side and a water resevoir side. One side can be bad allowing the other to work.

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it sounds like your water valve is bad. you have a double water valve - one side operates the ice maker and the other side operates the water dispenser. the ice maker side of the valve is bad.

you can manually pour a little water in the ice maker ice mold and wait an hour or so - if it dumps the ice then you know for sure that the ice maker is cycling and water is not getting to the ice maker from the water valved

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Good day,
Could be air, but if 48 hours passes without ice, it's not the problem.
To trouble shoot the ice maker, it is best to follow a step by step testing procedure. Ignore any step that does not apply.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

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Pour about 1/2 cup of water into icemaker . If it dumps , replace the water valve . If doesn't dump , replace the icemaker . Also make sure the coils are clean of dust , lint , etc...

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majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working. When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve. The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere. Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating. Test And Inspect The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).

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