Steiner yard tractor won't start. Battery has charge, oil light comes on, starter has been bench tested and works. Is there a starter relay potential problem or could it be the ignition switch being at fault ?
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Hi, Timothy and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
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If you went straight to starter with jumper cables and you got nothing then , then pull and have starter bench tested. Also make sure you haven't trigger some kind of security on your system that would lock you out from starting. you should see a security light flashing if you did.
remover the starter and bench test it with a battery charger or a battery to see if it works still. Maybe the starter solenoid is at fault only. Were the battery cable attaches to the starter bolt is positive and the starters housing is the ground. Connect the wires correctly to test this starter. The armature sounds like it is against the field casing keeping it from moving. It can be from a wormn armature shaft bushing if the starter seemed to operate just fine the time it started last
Sounds to me like the battery hasn't enough charge to turn the engine. Taking the starter off and testing it doesn't require much power as it doesn't have to turn the engine. Check the battery and also that the charging system is charging the battery back up.
If battery is new or like new and fully charged, and it still clicks, then the contacts to the battery may be corroded to the point that a 'limited' amount of current flows through the contacts to the starter.
When the starter is removed and bench tested, it will test out ok, so there must be something else wrong with the starting/charging system other than the starter or the battery itself. Something in between the two items is causing your problem.
clean your battery terminals and all grounds to the battery cables and check if the battery has 12 volts to 14 volts if not charge the battery then load test it. if the dash red lights go dim when you turn to start position your starter is bad or your battery is too low. You can have someone hold the key in the start position while you tap the corner of the starter housing and see if it turns over. The starter bushings are worn if it turns over.(needs starter replaced)If it does not go dim then the problem may be in the electrical switch for the ignition. The switched power to the starter solenoid comes directly from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid (purple) Test if you are getting power to the starter. If not then check from the ignition switch mounted to the steering column. Make sure you pay attention to which wire goes to which post if you remove it for a bench test. If you get them backwards it wont do anything. .If oil leaking on the starter you will want to fix the oil leak so it doesnt ruin the starter probably valve cover gaskets leaking oil.
a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start ,No dash lights?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
.If the battery iS more than 5yrs old OR COMMING CLOSE TO IT DEPENDING ON ITS CURRENT CONDITION you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Verify this by removing the starter and have it bench tested.
Most parts stores can bench test the starter. Also verify that when you turn the key on that there is a click in the relay cluster under the hood by the battery which would be the starter relay activating to power the starter solenoid. If you fail to hear this click then locate and swap the relay with one that does work like the headlamps. If again this fails to work, (assuming you bench tested the starter and it passed) you can try bypassing the relay with a paperclip after probing the contacts and finding a power in and a lead that is not grounded by using the ohm meter to probe it to the battery ground. If you feel comfortable to try this and it cranks and starts or at least cranks, then suspect the neutral safety switch. This is possibly located on the transmission or the steering column at the gear shift selector. This switch only allows the vehicle to be started in park or neutral with an automatic. I doubt its a manual, but if so then check the clutch switch at the top of the clutch, just put a paper clip in its connector and try starting the van while out of gear. But in cases like this if the starter passes a bench test then usually the neutral switch or starter relay has failed.