No brakes I think the booster was going out because my peddle got soft but would still stop me then i changed my brake pads shortly after the brakes completly went out and can now only stop with the emergency brake

Usually when the brake booster goes bad, when driving and trying to stop, the pedal is VERY hard to depress and the vehicle will not stop easily so don't drive fast, you will not be able to stop in short distances.

Brake booster diaphragm is gone resulting in vacuum leak and hence soft brake and hissing sound. Get the brake booster changed, it will be fine.

That is a vacuum leak from the booster on the inside, For the solution the rotor have minimum thickness and the value cannot be exceeded even by ten percent. How is the rear brakes if they are shoes did you inspect and adjust them.Also front brakes pads brand form different manufaucture perform at different rate. A low end pad you get low end result,(the effects the coeffieciency of friction).Youll need to address that vacuum leak also,A situation like that does and will affect performance of the brake booster,

Sounds like you will have to bleed your brakes again, but thats not the problem og hard brake peddle, need to check your power brake booster, sit right in back of master cylinder, check make sure it has vacum going to it, also to test it with engine off, press on brake peddle three time, then state engine with foot on peddle, peddle should go down a few inches, also with engine of peddle should feel soft for three pumps, if you have none of this , power brake booster is bad.

check up the ABS device maybe it is gone not work correctly

well maybe the lines are not bleed right. did you bleed the master??

It is a defective brake booster. When the internal diaphram of the brake booster develops cracks or pinholes from age, the crankcase vacume pulls air through the defective break booster diaphram from the air intake valve located on the rod connected to the brake peddle. At first the air leak sound my change or even go away when the brake peddle is depressed. But over time the booster diaphram will detierorieate to the point where the air leak sound will be contiuious. This is a problem that should be addressed ASAP as a defective break booster reduces the power assist to the break peddle and may make it difficult to apply enough break pressure to stop in an emergency situation.
Have the brakes checked by a certfied brake shop right away.

you can tell if the brake booster is bad, rearly it goes bad, your master cyclinder usually go out before your brake booster will. It feel spoon-gy and while pressing down on the brake peddle holding it down you can feel the pressure bleed off with no resistance. If the brake booster is bad you have only ONE shot for braking each time; its very dangerous. Did you bleed the brake lines to release the the air out of the system when you replace the pad? whom ever did your brakes should know to bleed it. having air in the line can be dangerous as brake will not function and operates properly and can cause an accident. If you did bleed the brakes and your booster is fine then you have a master cylinder problems. master cylinder gives you a spoon-gy feel and when braking the peddle it tend to go to the floor and you have to let your foot up to build the pressure and applied the brake again to make it stop. Master Cyclinder use or rebuilt will cost you 30.00 bucks and new will be 58.00 bucks and they are easy to replace. Just make sure you have plenty of extra brake fluid to bleed all 4 brake line..I recommend you reused the brake fluid when bleeding the unit saving some money than wasting the fluid, glass jar is the best for capturing the bleed fluid with automotive smallest vacum hoses you can purchase at any auto discount store 58 cent a foot, which you only need 2 foot. good luck I hope that help some.

the brakes have to be bleed you wrote that when you start the car the pedal goes to the floor that means the booster is working fine take it back and tell them you want the brakes bleed

Master Cylinder (Brake System) :
Worn or leaking brake master cylinder.
Brake Power Booster :
Damaged booster vacuum line/check valve, or diaphram .
Brake Proportioning Valve :
Improper installation/adjustment or damaged proportioning valve .

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