Question about Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

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Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

It runs for three to four minuts then shuts off, it will restart but then shuts off

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  • Anonymous Jul 06, 2008

    my humitifier runs 2-3 minutes then shutsdown immediately starting again. Compressor feels warm but does not cool the coils.

  • atiliop Jul 12, 2008

    my starts , runs for a couple of minutes stops then a few minutes later does the same thing and dont get any humidity. I cleaned the filter and try diferent settings but didnt help

  • mrblister Jul 18, 2008

    My unit has the same problem: when I turn it on, it runs for a few minutes then shuts down. A couple of hours later it comes back on for a few minutes and then shuts off. My basement is extremely humid.



    I've tried it at various humidity settings and it's the same problem. It does the same thing when it's in the "On" mode (i.e. on 100% of the time regardless of humidity).



    I've cleaned the filter and coil. There is no water in the tank.



    Thanks

  • Patrick Tully Oct 27, 2008

    Just wanted to post a big THANKS to ForthRyms! The solution you posted worked perfectly. Many thanks for taking the time to detail the steps necessary and for the solution itself. Finances are tight right now and not having to spend big $'s to fix my dehumidifier that is critically needed was a huge blessing!

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I'm working on mine right now as we speak with the same problem , it runs for 3-4 minutes and then drops out and what I think I have found is the compressor comes on but the fan that blows over the condensor/evaporator assemblies never turns on ! I tore the covers of mine and put a volt meter across the orange and black wires (with the unit on high ) , on the little white plug in the metal box on a pc board , that all the wires go into and with the comressor off just before it starts on power up I have 122vac (volts ac) and then the compressor kicks in and it drops to about 107 vac but no fan action so I'm getting on line to order a motor assembly Kenmore # 4681A20040K ! I just happened across this site so I hope It works for me and helps you !

Posted on Jul 19, 2008

  • ForthRyms Jul 26, 2008

    Well , It's working like a champ ! I was right about the fan motor ,,,,, kinda ! After I found the fan had power but not turning I got on Sears web site and ordered the motor on 7-19-08 with an E.T.A. of 7-28-08 at my house , I got back online 2 days latter to track it and now found the new E.T.A. was 8-26-08 "My Bad" Sears! Complaining done , I went to find it some where else with the intent to cancel Sears and lo-and-behold I came across doityouself.com and there was a guy on there that had fixed this same problem with a $1.** something thermal fuse from Radio Shack ! What a find !! So if you are upto the repair challenge , probably a 2 on a scale of 1-10 here is the info he gave with some of my own additions :

    1) (1) Radio Shack Thermal Fuse #270-1322 ($1.69)

    2) (1) roll of aluminum duct tape with sticky back 2" wide (Ace Hrdwr ) it's like a heavy aluminum foil with sticky on back

    3) (1) box of Ace Hrdwr # 34559 Crimp connectors insulated ,

    plus crimp tool if you don't own one !

    4) (1) can of 3 in 1 oil or simular with long skinny spout

    5) Tools :Soldering iron,needle nose plyers,crimp tool,razor/scalpul knife 5/16"nut driver,Phillips screw driver,small1/8"-1/4" flat screw driver

    O.K. here's what I did , Unplugged the unit------!!! Then took out (6) white painted Phillips head screws on back , grabbed the back's bottom corner and pulled out slightly to see where these little tabs lock the plastic back to the metal case/cover and with a small flat screw driver pryed the tab out of the metal (4) altogether (2) on each side . I had to remove my hose drain connector by twisting 1/4 turn and pulling out . The back should lift up off of (2) tabs at the top now . Then pull out the water catch bucket . Remove the (2) (longer) black head Phillips screws that hold the plastic front on at the bottom . I believe there are (2) tabs holding the front sides to the metal case/cover same as back so pop these out also and lift carefully off (2) tabs at top ! Now there is a cable connected to the display board , just leave it connected and lay the whole front up on top the metal case cover temporarily.Then remove the (2) (shorter) black head Phillips screws in the front that go through the metal case/cover about midway down and (2) goldish case/cover screws at top . Now on the back remove (1) goldish looking Phillips screw in upper right hand corner then all that's left is (4) white painted screws on the sides down at the bottom of the case/cover . Carefully lift off touch pad/front and lay down in bucket area then lift case/cover (look how it locks into the base at back first) off to expose the inside . Spin the fan impeller , mine stopped quickly----I'll explain latter ! Peel or scrape off the green nut-locker/tamper-indicator dripped on nut then with the 5/16" nut driver unscrew nut from fan impeller ! Grab the impeller and pulling slightly away from the motor tap with plastic end of nut driver on the motor shaft to remove impeller from motor . now with the scalpul get under the aluminum/insulator paper (one layer only) and cut all the way from one side to the other "NOT TO DEEP" . This will expose the thermal fuse (little cylinder with wire out of both ends) and connectors . Pull off the two white connection covers . If you have an ohm meter it wouldn't hurt to check the fuse and if it's got conductivity from one end to the other your problem is elsewhere , mine had no conductivity so it was bad ! De-solder the connections . Now there is two ways to go about installing the new fuse , soldering it or crimping it in ! Soldering it could blow the fuse being a "Thermal" fuse ! I chose to crimp it in with the small crimp connectors I suggested above from Ace though this takes more room which could hang up on inside of impeller mine did at first I also had used some electrical tape and some un-heated heat shrink-tube from Ace(about 3/8" diameter 1/4" would probably work) then cut a piece of my 2" wide aluminum duct wrap to help cover where we cut the aluminum earlier , this holds it down away from inside impeller ! Just make sure all wires are not exposed ! Now , spinning the impeller earlier , I believe the bushings on the motor shaft dried out which caused the motor to get hot taking out the "thermal" fuse ! Remove the e-clip on the shaft of the motor with small screw driver then take out (2) screws holding motor in place and watching not to drop little rubber seal just behind e-clip or a plastic spacer on back of bushing assembly slide front bushing assembly off motor and then pull motor out of back bushing assembly and separate front bushing from motor shaft at this point take the 3 in1 oil and drip into all moving part of the bushing(s) there is a hole in both bushing housings that has a felt oil pad , soak it ! Take your Phillips screw driver or similar and spin the bushings to get oil down inside and now it's time to re-assemble the motor section and impeller then run for about 30 seconds and then shut it off and the impeller should just spin and spin for a long time ! Take and vacuum out the front radiator (evaporator) fins careful don't smash them ! I then let mine run for about an hour before I re-assembled the covers to make sure it wouldn't die again and then , in reverse order , re-assemble ! I hope this is helpful to someone one because it took a while to scribe . Let me know if it helped and good luck !

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I was having the exact problem. After researching this for a couple days I ran into ForthRyms solution. This solution worked perfectly for me. I replaced the thermal fuse and oiled the bearings and it is currently running like it is new. If it wasn't for this great solution I wouldn't have got my money's worth out of this unit and it would have definitely been more landfill matter.

Posted on Sep 16, 2008

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The directions given by FourthRyms were clear and accurate. They solved the problem. It is unfortunate that such a small and simple component is so important yet hard to get at.

Thanks

Posted on Jun 27, 2010

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Thanks ForthRyms,, Tried your solution last night and had to empty the bucket this AM.. You were right about the bearings for the motor being dry.. I am sure I will have to replace it one of these times..

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

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I found an abandoned unit on the side of the road, and picked it up to dispose of the thing properly (freon).  When I got it home I tried it out for kicks, and sure enough the compressor was working fine, but the blower motor didn't work.  Tore into the unit and put a meter on the circuit board pins where the little white 3 pin plug for the fan connector is.  I got 115 vac between the bottom ( orange wire I think ) and the middle and upper pins.  The fan speed control toggled the 115 vac between the upper and middle pins, so I felt confident the electronics were working properly.  When I metered the motor I found one of the windings read as open, so I would say it needs a new fan motor.   Thanks for the motor part number, as when you go to searspartsdirect.com it lists the dehumidifier as not containing any user serviceable parts for the unit ( WHAT A CROCK ).  IMHO the sears parts web really . . .   explicative deleted.  So  $29 for a new motor or on ebay $89 for a factory refurbished one?  What to do.    Any other ideas for sourcing (cheaper) equivalent blower motors other than Sears?

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

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I followed the very detailed instructions of FourthRyms and my dehumidifier now works as it did before the problems began. I will keep these instructions with the unit for the next time this happens, or to do a little preventive off-season maintenance when the spirit is willing!

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

Try and fix it appears inappropiate to me. Exspecially coming from apprentice dalemounsey.

Posted on Jul 06, 2008

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Try and fix it

Posted on Jun 30, 2008

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