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If the leak is from the bottom of the front door than it is most likely the door seal. If the leak is from beneath the unit and appearing to leak out from the front there are many sources for the water.
Check the seal around the door. It may have some residue that has collected prohibiting the seal. The water in the machine actually sits in a tub. The seal on the door prohibits the water leaking as the spray arm rotates.
To test the door seal start the cycle and stop the unit as soon as the machine begins the spray cycle. Open the door and observe that the tub is full but still below the edge. Dry the seal around the door. Place colored paper towels or cloth beneath the door as close to the door seal as possible, Continue with the cycle and observe for water leaks. Stop allow the unit to sit a few seconds open door and observe the seal. You are looking for the location that it is leaking.
If you can confirm that the seal is leaking you can purchase replacement seals, On some models they can be easily replaced.
In my experience I have not seen a filter in the return line. If there is a blocked return hose the unit would not leak. The tub would remain filled after the cycle. There is an overflow switch that prohibits the tub from overfilling if the tub has not emptied between cycles.
Most likely issue here is that the door is not sealing properly or the sensor on the door is not working, so it can fill up much as your washing machine does but just as the washer won't spin without the door closed neither will the dish washer. An easy way to check this is to let it fill and then lean or push against the door some and see if it starts, if so then the issue is the isn't sealing properly.
the reason why you are getting the flashing light is because the
dishwasher failed to detect a 4 degrees rise in the water temp during
the first 8 minutes of the cycle. Some reasons for this is a faulty
heater, door switch,(heater runs through the nuetral side of the door
switch), lack of water, d/w not filling correctly, should be just below
heating element. Clear the fault by pressing following order. .
The dishwasher will go through a cancel cycle (drain the tub) and will then let you start it up again.
Remove the filter from the lower front section of the wash tub and clean it out. Then start a wash cycle with no dishes and no soap. Once the water fills and starts washing,open the door and pour 1 quart of white vinegar in the wash tub. Close the door to resume the wash cycle. Let the machine run a complete cycle to the end to help clean out the water ports.
Check for the right amount of water in tub. In this unit close to the lip of the tub after fill. If water fill is correct check movement of lower spray arm. Other possibilities delayed action of dispenser from defective wax motor. Most probable is wash motor. Start unit after fill and when was starts, open door and see if water is being pushed to the top rack and dripping from the top of tub. Motor is easy to install.
in the front left bottom of the tub is a float switch; it sometimes is under a cover with a screw securing it it looks like a big round ball shaped piece of plastic and on the bottom of this float there's a pin going down a hole in the tub (the float pin sits on the switch and, water lifting up and down on the float moves the switch: listen for a distinct "click" as you move the float up and, down
you see; the float rises as the water fills the dishwasher tub closing the float switch and, signaling the washer to start cleaning the dishes
some times dirt prevents movement of the float but,waiting usually displaces the dirt/soap etc. just enough to make it work again until the float pin gets encrusted again the cure is to clean the float pin
Unfortunately there is no easy way to completely get the detergent out of the rinse aid reservoir in one quick method, short of taking the inside panel off the door.
However, I would try a simple way to flush it out. With the door open almost al the way open, pour warm/hot water into the rinse aid fill hole and keep pouring until you start to get clear water coming out. The water will be flowing back out the fill hole you're pouring the water into and should just flow down the door panel into the dishwasher tub. Try to keep the door about 10-15 degrees up from all the way open to let the water get in the rinse aid reservoir.
Just pour the water in slowing so you don't agitate the mixture and you should be able to get it running clear in 5-10 minutes. It could take a gallon or so of warm/hot water to accomplish this, but it will flush it.
When you'r done, just put the dishwasher into a rinse cycle to pump out the water and soap, etc. You may have to run a full cycle afterwards to get rid of any excess detergent in the tub.
All the tall tub dishwashers made by Whirlpool (inc. Kenmore and Kithcenaid) must have the start button pressed after adding a dish. If the start button control light is blinking, you must press start. On those models with buttons on the top of the door you must, in addition, close the door within aprox 5 seconds after pushing start. Hope this helps. Ken
Mderford, on a normal fill, the water should be just above the filter screen. 1.8 gallons first fill, 1.7 on all other fills. Don't think it would be a siphoning problem as you are not having this on the pots/pans. Check the float, make sure it is not sticking. You can check the inlet valve filter screen to see if it is not plugged. Run it through the diagnostics cycle by pushing high temp-air dry-high temp-air dry. Some models it's heated dry-normal-heated dry-normal. It will run through a self test for about 20 minutes. See if any error codes come up. Fill time should be approx. 1:30 to 1:40 seconds. If any of the aformentioned doesn't turn up any results, then it's possibly a faulty fill valve drive circuit on the control itself...Catriver..post back.